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/h/ - Hobby Autism

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 No.214[View All]

Just wanted to post some preliminary progress regarding my AR18 build
i dont have any access to any examples of these because i live in a commie faggot state, but i've started to at least make progress on constructing an upper receiver flat.

im doing this with some knowledge ive deduced and some simplifications as such:
- an AR18 tubular receiver has internal dimensions of 1.25" x 1.25"
- an unbent flat will be approximately 5 inches across
- relative proportions from pictures will be close enough for function

using that i performed progressive rudimentary visual perspective correction for image 1 using GIMP and gridlines to get image 2. i then imported it into autocad and corrected for any rotation. i then visually mapped out the outline to get a general proportions. with this done i scaled the drawing to my 'known' dimension of 5 inches and examined the other dimensions. I then went through them and rounded up or down to units that are convenient to imperial system, and radiused select corners

This would be an iterative process of refining the flat given i dont even have access to an actual rifle. the only dimensions i can think of that will require being really close would be overall length and width. Width i know isn't going to be accurate, given that when bending sheet metal flat dimensions like that wont directly translate to the finished dimensions, but it think its a good starting point. length would be easy enough to change.

290 posts and 90 image replies omitted. Click reply to view.


sometimes you just need a bigger stronger guy to make you feel safe and less confused…


this spigga MATHS


you cant say that word thats OUR word


i degreased parts today
will try to get things blasted and phosphated sometime tomorrow


engineerbro, how to make a lathe without using another lathe?


you just handbuild a 'shitty' one, then you use that one to make a better one
p. basic tbh


use your friends lathe


use a drilldo


fucked up my parkerizing, even ended up getting some of the solution on the grill (its a manganese-phosphate soution) so that shits probly NOT good
literally accomplished nothing except messing up my sandblasting. i'll alternately rub it down with 120 grit aluminum oxide media and a toothbrush, then i'll brush it with some warm acid to try and induce an even layer of rust
then boil it in water. should convert the oxide layer into magnetite
can be done multiple times


sounds fucking hot


the parkerizing is in the range of 190F, the rust bluing ofc is at 212F


wont that just evolve it into magneton?


just tap b during the evolution and it will stop…




Zoomer quit at work so now I'm doing the work of 4 people. Made some really neat simulation tools at work but no progress here


you will ping me in next weeks nfl thread if any progress is made


ok, i'll try and get you something to look at in the next week


specify what you mean by something


heem gonna upload feet pics


ive figured out how im going to rust blue this thing
part of the issue is its a bitch to actually find a container long enough (27ish inches), thats not fuck yuge (say, a 50 gallon drum) to boil this thing in
i had a thought that maybe i could steam it for teh same effect, and found someone who did something similiar online
so i'll build my steaming apparatus this weekend. i have some 6" PVC thats long enough to do that. i'll put it over a pot of boiling water on a hot plate.


you know what they say about guys with soft hands


they've got soft cocks?


ok i did some messin around with rust bluing yesterday. just the small parts, so i can do it in a pot
ya it seems to work alright. definitely some lessons learned
>very sensitive to grease
>better to paint the rust solution on rather than dunk it
>not entirely sure if it matters how you 'card', the superficial layer of magnetite seems to rub right off. maybe carding with more aggresive abrasives makes the final finish more durable??


File: 1670791371073.jpg (1.27 MB, 1920x2560, 3:4, IMG_20221211_121334415.jpg)

So the results from my second attempt:

Pictured dried.

Some of the issues: inconsistent surface finish. Some spots just never really rusted properly and converted to magnetite, specifically on the rear sight dial. Might be because of the forming process pushes the grease into every microscopic crevice

Also some pitting from my accelerated rusting process. I think getting a nice consistent rust on the first shot is important, and will put more effort into degreasing in the future

The finish is awesome after oiling tho, very slick and slippery, and a deep deep black color


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harassment was requested and it will be delivered sexually


this thang jus shoot airsoft don't it quit playin


ya it does hey wanna play airsoft sometime?


spent the past 3 days experimenting with making my own rust blue process, been making some really good headway

giving a quick writeup of the process ive been through, some observations, and where i'm headed
so my first attempt the day before >>1239, learned you really do need to degrease well and (didn't know this yet) deaerate your water

>>1240 second attempt involved dropping parts directly into a vat of hydrogen peroxide salt solution. reaction was vigorous, and continous as rust flaked off and continued to react with the solution even without parts. process was tedious (went at least a dozen cycles), finish was splotchy, and surface had some pitting

monday i started the process of looking for a better method. i found one that involves making a solution of vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and salt, then wiping a thin layer onto a heated work piece. i tried this successfuly, however for anything beyond simple geometry it becomes very tedious. dipping a piece into the solution resulted in splotchy surface with accelerated localized corrosion resulting in pitting. it also required many applications to before it was ready to go in the boiling water.

i was going to do a writeup on what i think is going on with the chemistry, but its so much of a guess that i decided to delete it. instead i'll just post observations.
>higher temps result in faster rusting in general (duh)
>lower 'wetted' durations (less submerged time + heated drying time) resulted in a more even rust without flakes or pitting
>surface tension of water results in beading causes streaks and dots when drying submerged pieces.
>acid solutions may speed up rust reaction, but seems more superficial (wipes off) and more prone to flakes/pitting
>significantly heating up an even rust layer in air appears to cause a beneficial reaction (turns brown, doesn't rub off)
>if water isn't deaerated corrosion continues during boiling

so something i realized early on is this process is fucking tedious and i dont want to do it a lot. its not realistic for me to to do this without dunking. dunking causes issues with spottiness and runs. i theorized it was due to the water beading up. isopropyl alcohol readily mixes with 3% hydrogen peroxide and acted as an effective surficant. dunking of test pieces has resulted in an even, durable rust. work is still ongoing but progressing well.


you didn't ping me in the nfl thread


yes i did >>>/sp/>>1522668


fuck >>>/sp/1522668


I wasn't there when you posted that


>i wasn't there
an executable offense


so while the rubbing alcohol helps with wetting, it seems to cause other issues causing localized corrosion. I think it has something to do with the salt
I'm moving towards a 2 step process involving a priming agent and am oxidiser. For my rusting agent I want something polar that doesn't leave a residue, react with salt, and has a low surface tension. Oxidiser will be hydrogen peroxide


testing stuff out with methanol now…
strong stuff. a shot of it feels like 3 shots of vodka


so i was hoping the methanol could work as a primer but it seems like despite being polar it cant absorb enough salt to really do the job great. i know the stuff mixes well with water, maybe the two combined could lower the surface tension enough and have enough salt to be effective like that.

it does seem to mix very well with hydrogen peroxide tho, and ive been trying it as a single mixture again. you can definitely tell the surface tension is low, stuff wets beautifully. might have some minor pitting issues? hard to tell before you're completely done


wew ok not gonna fuck with methanol anymore
been drying parts off that were dipped in the shit for a few hours now
didn't realize JUST how toxic this shit is


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ok not like im gonna do any of this because ive already scared myself fucking around haphazardly with poison, but this open AI shit is fucking amazing. not that i would trust the results, but god damn does it give you a place to start digging. from what i can tell, its making the same guesses i am


so bizarre, you the chatbox can do really complex shit, but manage to screw up stuff like providing proper NFPA hazard diamond values. thats the sorta shit that has its data tabulated, you'd think thats what it gets correct.


russians actually give a shit about making chemistry info available, apparently



>doesnt fuck around haphazardly with poison


Don't worry see >>1258


Oops I meant >>1255
see >>1255


yadda yadda yadda are you gonna FUCK this AI or can i?


he only creates cuckold stories about his pinay gf with it


haven't tried yet tbh


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ok so after months of fucking around here is what i've got
this from >>1245
>significantly heating up an even rust layer in air appears to cause a beneficial reaction (turns brown, doesn't rub off)
was really what i should have been focusing on trying to figure out what reaction was happening
from everything i've played around with now, i suspect it has to do with alkilinity
it (seems) like when you develop a rust layer using an acid, you're sort of fighting yourself because while its a good electrolyte, its also dissolving your rust as it forms and you're left with a very superficial rust layer
if you develop your rust in alkaline conditions it appears much darker and is durable
so i've been experimenting with electrolysis in a saturated soda ash solution
i make the soda ash by baking baking soda in the oven for an hour at 300
you can tell if it works because you can feel the saponification during handling
other very handy thing with the electrolysis is its self limiting. since rust isn't conductive, the resistance increases until the piece is entirely coated, and no more current is flowing
i just boiled my fuck-around piece and it converted to black oxide. sometime in the next week i'll document on a more formal test piece to confirm this before i do the gun


>>1429 (You)
ok wtf i couldn't recreate the conditions
idk wtf had changed, but that way worked really well
i played around with electrolysis in sodium percarbonate / sodium solution and actually managed to plate with magnetite. could potentially cut out the boiling step which would be nice but i'll need to fully investigate how well it works


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My test piece before and after
I developed a little rust at the end to see if it would affect the surface finish if I didn't correct it
I couldn't tell because it ended up sorta rough overall

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[ 76 / egy / h / kc / librejp / sp / v ] [ ukko ]