shouldn't you be able to find detailed and exact measurements of all the receiver components online? I would think that this "approximation then refine" strategy would be a huge disaster and time suck
would anything in ar180s.com be helpful? eg:
>>216>would anything in ar180s.com be helpful? eg:
extremely helpful. im already in correspondence with Rick Kelley (the site owner) by email >>215>I would think that this "approximation then refine" strategy would be a huge disaster and time suck
a time suck sure, but not that much of a time suck. I wouldn't build a whole rifle on my first receiver, presumably i'd be able to refine it before then
certainly not a huge disaster. its how many obscure homebuilt rifles are made, and when things are hand fit nothing really matters that much anyway because you're fitting on the fly
>>215>>215>would be a huge disaster and time suck
this nigga built a watch
getting some inconsistencies regarding looking at the flats. my reference flat is slightly different than everything else ive seen
30 dollars to get it 3d printed
overall dimension not actually that big
a tad over 7 inches long, less than an inch and half wide
might by one of those nodak spud receivers soon and print out a trunnion and receiver to check dimensions
developing some tolerances right now for parts.
need to buy the lower receiver to get a better idea of the upper receiver dimensions
not to get ahead of myself, but im thinking the way the trunnion is set up can be simplified. having it set up to take your standard AR15 barrel would be a plus, except theres not enough room for the index. would have to redesign how the handguards go on to. probly make them split on the other plane for simplicity sake
i must have been posting all my updates in spee because none of it is here
just spend the night having serious autism and designing what im hoping will be my bending jig
i got inspired and doin my own design. will see if thats a mistake or not
mmkay keep us updated OP
ive got most of it modelled out, pretty fun to look at.
just list everything ive done since 2019:
>switched to solidworks, remodeled everything
>multiple 3d printed iterations of receiver and trunnion to narrow down the placement
>MJF printed buttstock, buttpad, prototyped a rear sling swivel to stop stock rotation
>95% modeled handguards, heat shield, front sight block, handguard retaining ring
>picked up an AR18 front sight
>found out the AR18 gas block diameter is way smaller than an ar180
>need to either reprofile the barrel (its an insane heavy bull barrel) or get a new one
>getting new one would be the simpler and possibly cheaper option
>also wouldn't have to headpace it which would make life easier
>guess i could sell the ar180 barrel?
sorry i mean ar180b not ar180
might makes some changes to the paper. not liking how i describe the setup, not clear
Looks cool. You making a book for it?
no its just an internal paper to document how i arrived at the K-factor. its very useful for me to use as a reference for anything related i eal with in the future
i would like to write a book or manual or something along lines of 'a case study in homemade firearm manufacture'– they could go in there i suppose
made the proper punches today, need some adjustment. one of them needs significant adjustment (i completely messed up the size on accident)
mess them up on purpose next time
but that would be a complete waste ;_;
iata but this seems like the kinda shit that would be way beneficial to have an experienced bloke (muscledaddy) show ya the ropes, for sake of time, wasted materials and keeping your fingers? like apprenticeships r gud n stuff
does this makerspace where you have access to this stuff make you sign waivers before turning you loose?
im smart enough not to kill myself or destroy equipment
but ya it is pretty dangerous theres zero supervision or training and the only thing they have you do is sign a piece of paper saying you wont use stuff without training and sue if you get hurt
a skilled machinist is pretty cool/admiral, but tbqphwyf being an acceptable 'ok' machnist is pretty easy. the ones i work around are fucking retarded.
what are you gonna do for the ramrod
the oprod? i nabbed one along with piston/cylinder a while back
i could pretty easily make an op-rod tho. piston and cylinder would be a lot harder and id have to use a lathe
looks great. how much time in are you now?
its taken forever. the design side took a long time to kick off just because i didn't have necessary parts to reference.
all time total? probly few hundred hours?
now that i have the experience id do it a lot different
i'll try and get a successful flat bend for you by next weekend, then if all is well its onto the cam pin rail and trunnion
i used to fabricate my own parts then i took an arrow to the knee
rod that you ram into your gun
as an update that flat bend wasn't successful, but it was relatively close
the problem is my rubber forming technique iw as using didn't work well when scaled up to 8" of length
it did the long flange no sweat, but failed on the short one
decided i'd change my bending jig to be a vice, can bend into it to get most of the angle with a thinner rubber sheet, then shut the vice to get overbend/complete the bend
been spending the past month and half making the vice, is almost done. just some finishing stuff and the jaws are left. hopefully it works
rod that i ram into ur mom
Wait how did you get autocad at home?
just download a student version for free if you have a .edu email
or download a cracked version
or dont. i dont use autocad anymore i use solidworks because thats what i use at work
for free stuff just use fusion360 (not a fan but it has good features, trying to suck you into their product sphere) or one of the FOSS ones
no for froot smoothie and shorkcel's choco pb protein shakes
There's no student version of SOLIDWORKS?
yes there is fucktard you can buy a student license for 20 bucks
You make that metal yourself or did you buy it from a store?
did you complete the jaws yet and do you think it will slip during bending
yes and not sure yet
my next step was to make something for alignment of hte punch (make sure the punch doesn't flip to once side or other during bend)
so i bought some 15 series aluminum extrusion. will allow me to make a supporting frame under it, and also mount some studs that i can slide to a desired position and use as a guide pin. the stud can also be removed and a bolt put in place through the punch to hold the flat down as the jaws are getting tightened.
also i cant find my crescent wrench.
shutup and make me some more cookies
the aluminum extrusion came in, i put it all together its not bad. clunky and not refined but i think it will work
have to go tomorrow and modify (extend the length) of my punches to sync up with the guide rods now
whyd you make this thread in 2019
its taken forever.
makin the 2nd version of my rib forming die now, probly be done with it on…. this weekend??
>>681>its taken forever.
ask for help and stop doing everything by yourself
>>683>ask for help
it kinda defeats the purpose of why i do this stuff tho, which is mostly self improvement
theres also the problem of legal quandries particular to my state. my long term goal for this is to have a complete technical package that i can release onto the internet ala the 3d printed firearm scene
think fully toleranced drawings for the upper, lower, and jigs needed for manufacture
you're just too arrogant to ask for help
>>684>it kinda defeats the purpose of why i do this stuff tho, which is mostly self improvement
u get better when you learn with other people budy
I can build my own gun. I don't need any help. Leave it alone
its not a hobby that would be smart to do with others, i have a single trustworthy friend who is also an engineer with an interest in firearms and we typically discuss stuff every other day, but its the kinda thing that will become legitimately dangerous to start involving random people IRL
you just dont value friendship enough
im going to finish machining my rib forming die version 2 tomorrow, if im done early enough i'll post pictures of all the stuff i have backlogged
when do you plan on finishing machining your rib forming die version 2
all right and what happens if you're done early
i'll post pictures of all the stuff i have backlogged
ok it didn't happen today because the gf wanted to make a pie so i had to stay home and do that instead. maybe i can do it tomorrow? idk this fucks my schedule up ngl
so why did you stay at home dealing with some bitch instead of working on your project
becausewtf retard, ask me if it happened so i can respond "ok it didn't happpen today" then you can ask why, then you can ask when i might do it next, then you can ask if it messes with my scheduleugh way to fucking ruin everything
what kind of pie was it
we made a pie with pizza filling
so i guess basically deep dish with a crust?
red sauce, pepperoni, italian sausage, green bell pepper, lots of motz
did you save me a piece? haha
finished the rib forming die yesterday, if im not lazy i'll post picture
So to resolve the bending jig issues, I came up with a bending jig/vise/alignment frame concept for future bends. A thin sheet of rubber will be used stop it, and a bend goal of about 70-80% with the press. Then the piece will be bolted down, press removed, and the vise used to bring them the rest of the way in a controlled manner.
The other thing was building a new better rib forming die. I designed it then machined it in a couple sessions the other day. Today I tested it.
Results were good. Some minor nitpicks, but the depth is consistent, alignment acceptable, and edged fairly crisp. Forming the linger rib seemed to require slight more pressure then was available, however, because it didn't flatten the sheet back out at the end of forming.
The forming tool itself is kinda cool. Inserts held in place with setscrews, and in this case the inserts can be flipped around and combined with each other for different lengths/end positions etc. Is sort of slick
>>723>we made a pie with pizza filling
how'd it taste?
pretty good, the mix of pepp, sausage, and green bell peppers was pretty godly tbh
those bell pepps really add a lot when they get cooked
stopped by yesterday and attempted a bend without the UHMW pads
blocks still slipped, so going to have to do something else.
probly just make a "positioning" plate that has the purpose of putting everything the right distances, and will keep the blocks in place by putting the bolts in shear.
definitely not ideal loading, but i'll do some math to make sure nothing gets too crazy
nothing is worse than slippery blocks shorkcel
ya its kinda crazy how little lubrication is needed to bring steel on steel down to a relatively low static friction coefficient
I know right. me and you have a lot in common we should be friends
wow really maybe we can read a LN together
ask your MAL friends to read it with you
we need to talk about your 23andMe results
notes for next attempts:
- prevent mid beam deflection by making a 1/8" steel flush pressure pad along with some flat head retaining screws
- make a section profile spacer plate to prevent overbend during second bending (in the future, combine this with the punch)
- adjust flange length for a perfect seam upon final bend (for fusion butt weld with TIG)
also adjust 1 & 2 for existing bent flat before moving on to next steps
some other stuff ive noticed
radius on the rib side is slightly crimped
tube is not square, especially on the front (its like a parallelagram). this likely happened because the bends happeed unevenly, and one side got overbent significantly
the guide rod base has a cutout at the bottom to accomodate overpen from the weld seam
i might have to increase the size tolerance for my tube to account for manufacturing defects
also after measurement, opening still isn't opened the same, in the middle inch, over .01" difference in width
yah we know you love increasing size tolerances for tubes
i opened it up a little more, but it still wasn't square (needs to open more)
i might go tonight and do that, i'll bring my calipers and actually measure one side to the other
ok i've got updates, will post later sunday
looks great, can't be too far off now right?
nope its gettin real close.
still big hurdles ofc, but the bending stuff is the hardest and most involved.
the other stuff is just tedious machining (machining trunnion, machining front sight block, etc)
i'll 'finish' this one (i'll make simplified components with the critical features on it) so that when i do my next one, i'll have everything figured out and it'll be nice
Can you reuse any of the material you goofed on?
I can reuse some of the tooling, if you mean this receiver nah not really but that's ok
I have a pretty good feel for what not to do, so chances for the next one to be near production quality will be good
Thats cool. Making mistakes is a corner stone of learning. Its pretty impressive what youre doing.
its been a really long time doing this project on and off
tonight, i will try to machine the trunnion
ugh nvm wont happen tonight
tomorrow, if im lucky
ok well i went sunday, almost got it done but accidently scrapped it
unfortunate but i know what to avoid next i suppose
What happened that made you have to scrap it?
so i did the press fit stuff perfect
when i was cutting the features on the bottom my endmill slipped in the collet and i lost some Z without realizing it
it was probly because its a pretty dull end mill, the collet may have been dirty too
anyway i broke through the press fit wall of the trunnion
also snapped the shit out of my 1/4" endmill on a plunge lel
i'll probly post a pic at some point
trying again tonight
FUCK this is gay
tire blew out on the way
so bad the mexican shop in the bad part of town wasn't even willing to patch it
gay gay gay gay gay
>>816>not even the Mexicans will patch it
next time i go, i'll try to machine the barrel extension down and maybe press fit it
also will try to machine the front sight.
thats sort of a complicated on, but once its done thats the last major part
i have to make the cam pin rail too but thats dead simple
>>795>my phone sucks
yeah it does. Get a goolge pixel like everyone else in the world, fag
so looks like might barrel extension is canted a degree or so, enough that 2 of the lugs have a very light interference with the bolt. Not sure if I should go through the effort of removing the extension or let it wear in
for further context, it does go into battery
did some troubleshooting with my friend looks like part of the issue was the rail wasn't perfectly aligned and was pressing hard on the cam pin, once the rail got moved things are pretty smooth now
thanks i'll post updates if i get some this weekend.. or earlier??!?!
its your world, post them whenever :D
ok so 1st attempt for the front sight
broke my 1/4" 2 flute end mill which i need to do most of the features– confirmed that my placement for the gas port was acceptable, depth of that stuff/thread depth was ok
but then when i tapped it i accidently tapped it an an angle, so its scrap now. i bought enough raw material to make one more, so i'll make a couple tweaks to the design to simplify it plus make a better sequence of cuts now that ive tried it once
whoa how many walmarts can you shoot up with that?
i guess that depends how much ammo you have
You have infinite ammo when you repack your used shells =D
thats too autistic even for me
ok the latest:
>tool came in for holding the barrel extension by the lugs
>did preload calcs for the barrel/extension
>did some geometric checks to see if my chamber depth was deep enough to be safe
>figuring out how i'm going to headspace/how im going measure the gap i need for my spacer
that second to last one was kinda interesting
to elaborate a bit, theres a couple different ways that headspace is typically done. the most conservative way would be to make the bore as deep as possible, then adjust from their to get proper headspace. that way the maximum extent of the cartridge is supported
i had no idea what if anything was done with this barrel, because i bought it from some guy outside a UPS warehouse and it has no markings. its pretty weird for these things not to have an extension on it already too.
so what i did was measured how far the gauge sticks out when fully seated, then looked at the internal geometry of the case to see how much needs to be supported to not explode. then some simple geometry to make sure the cartridge is adequately supported throughout the entire safe range of headspace
i need to modify the barrel extension tool to fit inside the receiver, then make essentially a crowfoot to fit split clamp that ive got on the barrel so i can torque it to the range i need. since the shoulder on the barrel is further up than the proper headspace range, i'll need to machine a spacer to fill the gap. that spacer needs to be the proper size so that after im done torquing to the number i determined, the barrel will be in the safe headspace range
i made the crowfoot, the machining went great came out beautiful, then the welding went mostly ok except one of my welds looked a little ugly so i was going to do a pass over with teh tig torch but i forgot to turn the shielding gas on and it did fucking NASTY stuff
spent like 2 hours trying to clean the weld up to something that didn't look like disgusting
also i added a relief cut to the barrel extension tool, so it fits now (it didn't fit before).
that was a obnoxious
It's crazy to think you've taken all this time and precision creating this, and there's probably kids stamping parts in my huts in Africa and South East Asia for the same reason. Really makes you wonder.
>>867>probably kids stamping parts in my huts in Africa and South East Asia for the same reason
wait if they're your huts why wouldn't you know if they're stamping parts or not?
and why do you have huts in africa and south east asia??
THE BARREL IS HEADSPACED
>forgot to turn the shield gas on
damn man did you go full retard and shit it up entirely or just zapped it real quick and realized you fucked up?
i went full retard for like a full few seconds wondering why this thing was popping and bubbling all over the place
it turned out fine tho, grind it down, went back over it. a bit of porosity but double sided fillet was overkill anyway
headspacing went super smooth. very easy, i've got a good system now. cheap too
designing a rear sight
hope to make the rear sight wings this weekend
you should prolly still double check it after the first time firing it but you know what youre doing good luck
i'll be extensively checking brass, primarily
ur lookin good bby 😎
did some naaaasty welding on the rear wings, contouring them to look nice with the dremel
i dont really care tbh im gonna hammertone rattle can this bitch to hide most flaws anyway
debating whether i'll even parkerize it
got a lot of cosmetic flaws cleaned up this week (lots of welding, grinding, filing)
i didn't want to do any of that but i just can't fucking help myself
i still have a couple spots i need to weld (finish the seam on the receiver) but then thats it
then i'll sandblast it (probly with playsand like ive done before), then wash it, parkerize it, prime the exterior, then hammertone paint.
oh also still have to clean up the front sight block, drill the gas port etc
gettin pretty close tho, most of the major construction is done
another 6ish hours of grinding/sanding
i've got most of the weird cosmetic flaws feathered into the good stuff
i have a lot of experience doing dremel magic after i did the CETME a few years back
being a lot less careful this time though since its going to get a thick hammertone paintjob which will hide even big fuckups
i also split the difference for the charging handle opening where i drill the hole 1/16 too big, i enlarged 1/32 both sides and blended it over the full 4-5 inches
hides pretty well. looks decent
action is feeling very smooth. with the dog leg charging handle i can still induce a malfunction if i push or pull down on at, but i think im ok with that. shouldn't happen during firing, and this is just a prototype so im willing to make compromises. i really dont want to have to push this thing out and repress fit it at the right orientation, although that would be the proper action.
nothing is worse than a malfunctioning dog leg charging handle…
whats wrong with the charging handle does it keep barking at you?
so with a regular charging handle, the handle itself isn't very long.
the dog leg one comes out about 2-3 times as far, and is also offset way above, pic related.
the result is its pretty easy to torque the guide rods pretty hard. easy enough to rotate the entire bolt carrier a couple degrees
well my locking legs are already sllightly canted because i didn't press the barrel extension perfectly aligned, so pulling down on the charging handle can induce a malfunction where the bolt lugs can't rotate far enough to unlock fully
better post vids of testin
how bad does it get stuck if you do that? like you gotta kick the shit to loosen it or just smack it a little?
as in 100% stuck while in the induced position
kaki for illustration. in normal conditions, theres enough clearance for the bolt to clear the lugs. when charged at the wrong angle, with the dog leg charging handle, its possible to rotate the entire bolt carrier/guide rods/ bolt enough to suck up that clearance and prevent fully unlocking
if it were to get fired in that position may well tear off a portion of the lugs during unlocking. it wouldn't be dangerouse unless unnoticed and i were to keep firing
will post another pic in a second showing a bolt and lugs in case you're not familiar
finished my welding, went really well. got my settings figured out on my welder finally. used a big piece of aluminum as backing. easy and clean
then spent 3 hours trying to get my siphon blaster to work. compressor is way too tiny, too much moisture in the air. won't pull. nozzle worn out. not enough siphon effect
woah that thang can kinda kill nigrs
ok i'll post progress pictures today
last night i drilled the gas port, dimpled the barrel for a set screw, and threaded the front sight (for said set screw)
i wanted to sand blast but im having a hell of a time getting my siphon blaster to work.. i think my air is too wet. what a pain…
lookin great budy. do you have to make custom mags for it too or is it compatible with factory shit?
they take stock AR mags
even the original AR18 took slightly modified AR mags
so im set
can't wait for a video of it shooting at thangs
give me directions to Ironton, Ohio
thread protector came in, looks kinda gay but wtver i can't put a flash hider on it here legally
also decided to get my handguard 3d printed because its fucking cool for me to have designed all the furniture, the website is broken and accepts expired coupons that are supposed to be way more expensive shit, and i wanna see how closely i was able to reverse engineer them. they should arrive next week sometime
also need to make a new rear sight and system for how the rear sight adjusts, last set didn't work
I would've invested in a sneeze guard instead
w-ww-w-w-ww-ww-w-w—ww-w-w-whatdo you mean????!??!?!??? .. ?1
Bout ready to brougleigh them niggas huh?
gud gunr budy how much pak dogs it can maek ded?
now i wish i had a garage and some badass tools to make this kind of shit
if you have the time and REALLY have the tism, you can do a lot of this with a dremel, a set of files, and a vice.
i do not have enough tism for doing it with small hand tools where can i buy more autism?
i can loan you mine, but it doesn't come cheap.
what will 10 /sp/ollars buy me?
CRowjob for 10 minutes or to completion, whichever cums first.
any more work on it? hows she shootin?
also where tf do i get bdu surplus for cheap online?
don't keep us updated
this spigger does not speak for spartmen, spartmanchan.org, or it's administration
>>1006>hows she shooting
im slowly working on a rear sight. mostly im in an indecision loop, but i did finally make a choice and will probably try to make it this weekend
also making an mlok rail for mounting optics>bdu for cheap
local surplus store would be best bet. most stores these day only stock new manufac cheap chinese shit and dont even have any surplus, tho
you can sometimes find good deals on ebay from vets dumping all their shit at once
who u mag dumpin that bad boy at
hopin to go make the mlok rail tonight, was going to last week but caught the meme flu instead
oh wow you're makin a moloch rifle wow really fuckin
john podesta SICKO
kinda rear you going? going to co-witness?
sure you have optics already but got a primary arms prism, 10/10 for me wont buy anything else now
ngl not entirely sure where its going to end up, at the very least its not going to cowitness because the original irons are so low. might be in the bottom 1/3? i wont really know till i get it together
i have a trijicon MRO i'll put on it
also ive heard good things about primary arms.. someday i'll buy
hat cowitness man, just feels cluttered to me. put angled flips on, works well for me. u smithin the sights?
jealous of that red dot man, asstigmatism cucked
ya ive got a rear sight design ive made, played with the 3d mockup and its alright. it gets in the way of the guiderod for takedown, but im pretty sure thats how the original must have been as well. a nitpick with the design than anything else
yah I wouldn't do anything else until you fix that guiderod issue
guiderod getting in the way? that isn't normal
go to 0:44 and 0:57 in >>913
see how the guide rod gets pushed into the upper for assembly/disassembly?
well when the rear sight is actually in there it gets pretty tight
on mine the upper is tight enough that the friction actually holds the guide rod in unless i futz with it slightly
well its pretty awkward when you have hte actual sight in there, very space limited
some options are to shift the sight so its foward biasedi nstead of rear biased (i'll post my sight design soon so you see what i mean
im not sure i care enough tho, i just want to finish this so i can work on the drawing so other people can make it too/ make the updated/modernized version that uses modern off the shelf parts
don't finish it until the guiderod issue is fixed
i made some changes to the design… will post pics for you in a sec
got the optics rail made tonight
will try to get its mounting pads welded on tomorrow, and have some pics posted
need a vid
ugh, not right now im in public
i've got some plans on making the tool i need to deep draw the rear sight drum.. im very curious if it will work
as it this gets closer to completion and i start to shift over to the drawing portion of the project– any suggestions on how to distribute the info? ideal would be relatively easy to access, and neigh impossible to take down.
P2P? a QR code to a magnet, maybe?