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 No.214[Last 50 Posts]

Just wanted to post some preliminary progress regarding my AR18 build
i dont have any access to any examples of these because i live in a commie faggot state, but i've started to at least make progress on constructing an upper receiver flat.

im doing this with some knowledge ive deduced and some simplifications as such:
- an AR18 tubular receiver has internal dimensions of 1.25" x 1.25"
- an unbent flat will be approximately 5 inches across
- relative proportions from pictures will be close enough for function

using that i performed progressive rudimentary visual perspective correction for image 1 using GIMP and gridlines to get image 2. i then imported it into autocad and corrected for any rotation. i then visually mapped out the outline to get a general proportions. with this done i scaled the drawing to my 'known' dimension of 5 inches and examined the other dimensions. I then went through them and rounded up or down to units that are convenient to imperial system, and radiused select corners

This would be an iterative process of refining the flat given i dont even have access to an actual rifle. the only dimensions i can think of that will require being really close would be overall length and width. Width i know isn't going to be accurate, given that when bending sheet metal flat dimensions like that wont directly translate to the finished dimensions, but it think its a good starting point. length would be easy enough to change.



shouldn't you be able to find detailed and exact measurements of all the receiver components online? I would think that this "approximation then refine" strategy would be a huge disaster and time suck


would anything in ar180s.com be helpful? eg:


>would anything in ar180s.com be helpful? eg:
extremely helpful. im already in correspondence with Rick Kelley (the site owner) by email
>I would think that this "approximation then refine" strategy would be a huge disaster and time suck
a time suck sure, but not that much of a time suck. I wouldn't build a whole rifle on my first receiver, presumably i'd be able to refine it before then
certainly not a huge disaster. its how many obscure homebuilt rifles are made, and when things are hand fit nothing really matters that much anyway because you're fitting on the fly


>would be a huge disaster and time suck
this nigga built a watch
a watch


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huh fusion 360 actually has interesting features.


getting some inconsistencies regarding looking at the flats. my reference flat is slightly different than everything else ive seen


30 dollars to get it 3d printed
overall dimension not actually that big
a tad over 7 inches long, less than an inch and half wide
might by one of those nodak spud receivers soon and print out a trunnion and receiver to check dimensions


developing some tolerances right now for parts.
need to buy the lower receiver to get a better idea of the upper receiver dimensions


not to get ahead of myself, but im thinking the way the trunnion is set up can be simplified. having it set up to take your standard AR15 barrel would be a plus, except theres not enough room for the index. would have to redesign how the handguards go on to. probly make them split on the other plane for simplicity sake


i must have been posting all my updates in spee because none of it is here
just spend the night having serious autism and designing what im hoping will be my bending jig
i got inspired and doin my own design. will see if thats a mistake or not


mmkay keep us updated OP


ive got most of it modelled out, pretty fun to look at.


just list everything ive done since 2019:
>switched to solidworks, remodeled everything
>multiple 3d printed iterations of receiver and trunnion to narrow down the placement
>MJF printed buttstock, buttpad, prototyped a rear sling swivel to stop stock rotation
>95% modeled handguards, heat shield, front sight block, handguard retaining ring
>picked up an AR18 front sight
>found out the AR18 gas block diameter is way smaller than an ar180
>need to either reprofile the barrel (its an insane heavy bull barrel) or get a new one
>getting new one would be the simpler and possibly cheaper option
>also wouldn't have to headpace it which would make life easier
>guess i could sell the ar180 barrel?


sorry i mean ar180b not ar180


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So a lot going on here, I decided to go with a rubber forming jig, made one out of some 1-1/2"x6" 90a polyurethane that I modified, 2x3x1/4 angle (free), and 1/4" plate I had. My layup was perfect, my welding is dogshit (I'm not a welder for a reason).
Other pic is my test bend piece, just a small section of the receiver material, showing that it works.
My plan is to use a finger break for the small flanges of the receiver, and rubber forming for the larger sides.
I also did a small test piece to measure the k factor and make adjustments.
Its is also just big enough for me to use for my mp5 flat as well. Thankful, because I forgot to measure


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oh i worked on things a bit over the weekend and monday
basically modified the rest of the rubber pads over the weekend (hung out with my friend and he helped), did 6 legit bends to do a proper k factor measurement, then wrote a technical memorandum on it for documentation.
i also did a wide bend to see if i could do the small flange on it also, and confirmed i can. would like to do a wider one with small edge to triply confirm, but haven't had chance yet
paper attached, give it a read if you're interested. i'd like to add some more illustrations to it to get some of the points across better, but its pretty much done
pictures attached because i can't attach PDF


might makes some changes to the paper. not liking how i describe the setup, not clear




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Paper revised.. improved writeup, added pictures and diagrams, fixed some pretty major calculation errors and validated the results. this is the final paper compared to the other which was a bit of a rough draft also pictures of the bent specimens!


Looks cool. You making a book for it?


no its just an internal paper to document how i arrived at the K-factor. its very useful for me to use as a reference for anything related i eal with in the future
i would like to write a book or manual or something along lines of 'a case study in homemade firearm manufacture'– they could go in there i suppose


made the proper punches today, need some adjustment. one of them needs significant adjustment (i completely messed up the size on accident)


mess them up on purpose next time


but that would be a complete waste ;_;


y though?


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So taught myself how to use a Bridgeport and been practicing some milling
I got a test flat made, drilled holes for most the radiuses, used a stencil and painted complicated bits to cut out with an angle grinder. Scribed it all using the mill. Turned out great, but bending failed where the flange lengths were short (an unfortunate expectation). Those features will have to be cut after their bends.
Also experimenting with rib forming. A small proof of concept rib form posted last, when I make the real jig for it I'll post it


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Proof of concept rib forming


>taught myself
iata but this seems like the kinda shit that would be way beneficial to have an experienced bloke (muscledaddy) show ya the ropes, for sake of time, wasted materials and keeping your fingers? like apprenticeships r gud n stuff
does this makerspace where you have access to this stuff make you sign waivers before turning you loose?


im smart enough not to kill myself or destroy equipment
but ya it is pretty dangerous theres zero supervision or training and the only thing they have you do is sign a piece of paper saying you wont use stuff without training and sue if you get hurt
a skilled machinist is pretty cool/admiral, but tbqphwyf being an acceptable 'ok' machnist is pretty easy. the ones i work around are fucking retarded.


what are you gonna do for the ramrod


the oprod? i nabbed one along with piston/cylinder a while back
i could pretty easily make an op-rod tho. piston and cylinder would be a lot harder and id have to use a lathe


looks great. how much time in are you now?


its taken forever. the design side took a long time to kick off just because i didn't have necessary parts to reference.
all time total? probly few hundred hours?
now that i have the experience id do it a lot different
i'll try and get a successful flat bend for you by next weekend, then if all is well its onto the cam pin rail and trunnion


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dump of the stock and grip i designed
thinking bout making a set of hanguards too even though i have a pair.. would be cool


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i used to fabricate my own parts then i took an arrow to the knee


ramrod actually


what ramrod??


rod that you ram into your gun


as an update that flat bend wasn't successful, but it was relatively close
the problem is my rubber forming technique iw as using didn't work well when scaled up to 8" of length
it did the long flange no sweat, but failed on the short one
decided i'd change my bending jig to be a vice, can bend into it to get most of the angle with a thinner rubber sheet, then shut the vice to get overbend/complete the bend
been spending the past month and half making the vice, is almost done. just some finishing stuff and the jaws are left. hopefully it works


rod that i ram into ur mom


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Finished with the vise, this things a behemoth. 12 long 9 wide. Just need to make the jaws and hopefully the jaws don't slip during pressing


Wait how did you get autocad at home?


just download a student version for free if you have a .edu email
or download a cracked version
or dont. i dont use autocad anymore i use solidworks because thats what i use at work
for free stuff just use fusion360 (not a fan but it has good features, trying to suck you into their product sphere) or one of the FOSS ones


Blender is gud too




no for froot smoothie and shorkcel's choco pb protein shakes


There's no student version of SOLIDWORKS?


yes there is fucktard you can buy a student license for 20 bucks


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So here it is completed with the jaws and ball bearing at tip of fastener
Did some test crushing rubber, do t think it will slip during bending


You make that metal yourself or did you buy it from a store?


did you complete the jaws yet and do you think it will slip during bending


yes and not sure yet
my next step was to make something for alignment of hte punch (make sure the punch doesn't flip to once side or other during bend)
so i bought some 15 series aluminum extrusion. will allow me to make a supporting frame under it, and also mount some studs that i can slide to a desired position and use as a guide pin. the stud can also be removed and a bolt put in place through the punch to hold the flat down as the jaws are getting tightened.
also i cant find my crescent wrench.


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omg you're still playing with your toys? ugh come back to bed babe


shutup and make me some more cookies


the aluminum extrusion came in, i put it all together its not bad. clunky and not refined but i think it will work
have to go tomorrow and modify (extend the length) of my punches to sync up with the guide rods now


whyd you make this thread in 2019


its taken forever.
makin the 2nd version of my rib forming die now, probly be done with it on…. this weekend??


>its taken forever.

ask for help and stop doing everything by yourself


>ask for help
it kinda defeats the purpose of why i do this stuff tho, which is mostly self improvement
theres also the problem of legal quandries particular to my state. my long term goal for this is to have a complete technical package that i can release onto the internet ala the 3d printed firearm scene
think fully toleranced drawings for the upper, lower, and jigs needed for manufacture


you're just too arrogant to ask for help


no you


>it kinda defeats the purpose of why i do this stuff tho, which is mostly self improvement

u get better when you learn with other people budy


drop it. now.


I can build my own gun. I don't need any help. Leave it alone


its not a hobby that would be smart to do with others, i have a single trustworthy friend who is also an engineer with an interest in firearms and we typically discuss stuff every other day, but its the kinda thing that will become legitimately dangerous to start involving random people IRL


you just dont value friendship enough


im going to finish machining my rib forming die version 2 tomorrow, if im done early enough i'll post pictures of all the stuff i have backlogged


when do you plan on finishing machining your rib forming die version 2




all right and what happens if you're done early


i'll post pictures of all the stuff i have backlogged


ok it didn't happen today because the gf wanted to make a pie so i had to stay home and do that instead. maybe i can do it tomorrow? idk this fucks my schedule up ngl


so why did you stay at home dealing with some bitch instead of working on your project


wtf retard, ask me if it happened so i can respond "ok it didn't happpen today" then you can ask why, then you can ask when i might do it next, then you can ask if it messes with my schedule
ugh way to fucking ruin everything


what kind of pie was it


we made a pie with pizza filling
so i guess basically deep dish with a crust?
red sauce, pepperoni, italian sausage, green bell pepper, lots of motz


did you save me a piece? haha


all gone.
finished the rib forming die yesterday, if im not lazy i'll post picture


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Ok so updating the thread.
So before I made the new bending jig/vise, I had done a semi-successful rib forming and bend.
The rib forming tool was just a pice of wire on a plate, with an accompanying cutout. It didn't work well, at least partially because the pressure required is way too high to do both ribs at once, but also because of material strength issues and alignment problems.
Because of those, during the bend there was some tearing problems
The bends on the old bending jig weren't great either. Pressure required exceeded what what the press could provide, and the bends could only be completed 80ish percent. The remaining amount I cludged out by squeezing it in a vise. The results were not satisfactory, but the best so far


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So to resolve the bending jig issues, I came up with a bending jig/vise/alignment frame concept for future bends. A thin sheet of rubber will be used stop it, and a bend goal of about 70-80% with the press. Then the piece will be bolted down, press removed, and the vise used to bring them the rest of the way in a controlled manner.
The other thing was building a new better rib forming die. I designed it then machined it in a couple sessions the other day. Today I tested it.
Results were good. Some minor nitpicks, but the depth is consistent, alignment acceptable, and edged fairly crisp. Forming the linger rib seemed to require slight more pressure then was available, however, because it didn't flatten the sheet back out at the end of forming.
The forming tool itself is kinda cool. Inserts held in place with setscrews, and in this case the inserts can be flipped around and combined with each other for different lengths/end positions etc. Is sort of slick


i lik burgr kang


>we made a pie with pizza filling
how'd it taste?


pretty good, the mix of pepp, sausage, and green bell peppers was pretty godly tbh
those bell pepps really add a lot when they get cooked


stopped by yesterday and attempted a bend without the UHMW pads
blocks still slipped, so going to have to do something else.
probly just make a "positioning" plate that has the purpose of putting everything the right distances, and will keep the blocks in place by putting the bolts in shear.
definitely not ideal loading, but i'll do some math to make sure nothing gets too crazy


nothing is worse than slippery blocks shorkcel


ya its kinda crazy how little lubrication is needed to bring steel on steel down to a relatively low static friction coefficient


I know right. me and you have a lot in common we should be friends


wow really maybe we can read a LN together


ask your MAL friends to read it with you


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big progress– did the math to see if the positioning plate would work, numbers were close but it looked good
made it and did the bends
good results. ribs survived. fairly consistnet. actually bent it too tight on the second bend so its trapezoidal, but i can just break my tacks and adjust.
one weird thing is its actually lightly curved like a banana (maybe about 1/16" of an inch?). im still trying to figure out exactly how that happened
big step forward, though


>day skin

we need to talk about your 23andMe results


whats day skin?


notes for next attempts:
- prevent mid beam deflection by making a 1/8" steel flush pressure pad along with some flat head retaining screws
- make a section profile spacer plate to prevent overbend during second bending (in the future, combine this with the punch)
- adjust flange length for a perfect seam upon final bend (for fusion butt weld with TIG)

also adjust 1 & 2 for existing bent flat before moving on to next steps


some other stuff ive noticed
radius on the rib side is slightly crimped
tube is not square, especially on the front (its like a parallelagram). this likely happened because the bends happeed unevenly, and one side got overbent significantly
the guide rod base has a cutout at the bottom to accomodate overpen from the weld seam
i might have to increase the size tolerance for my tube to account for manufacturing defects


also after measurement, opening still isn't opened the same, in the middle inch, over .01" difference in width


yah we know you love increasing size tolerances for tubes


oh wow just wow




i opened it up a little more, but it still wasn't square (needs to open more)
i might go tonight and do that, i'll bring my calipers and actually measure one side to the other


ok i've got updates, will post later sunday


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Latest developments
I opened it up until square, actually significantly larger than I was expecting. Not sure if when I made the tooling I did that intentionally? But everything fits perfect, so doesn't matter either way. I just tacked it maybe 8 places evenly before machining
The issue with being out of square mostly disappeared, it turned out that only one side wasn't bent all the way on the front, and that was enough to throw it out of square when welded.once the pocket up front got machined it spring open on that side (that's why I have it clamped.
3d printed trunnion is in, guide rod and bolt carrier installed. Fits on the lower well but the fire control pocket is a little too small and it hits on the bolt hold open.
Gave a good lesson on work holding, glad I decided to take this one as far as I can, the 'production' one will be nice as a result.
Receiver is still slight banana shaped, but I think that will resolve by adding anything flat and rigid on top along with proper welding procedure
Next will be the cutouts for the bolt handle and holes for the cam pin rail


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oops sorry posted some image thumbnails on accident
also the camera/lighting did some weird shit, they look surprisingly decent considering i did all this on the fly
especially the last one with the clamp looking head on, the pic gives the illusion its not square, it is it looks p. clean IRL


looks great, can't be too far off now right?


nope its gettin real close.
still big hurdles ofc, but the bending stuff is the hardest and most involved.
the other stuff is just tedious machining (machining trunnion, machining front sight block, etc)
i'll 'finish' this one (i'll make simplified components with the critical features on it) so that when i do my next one, i'll have everything figured out and it'll be nice


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milled out the charging handle slot and the plug holes for when you weld the cam rail in.
noticing some unintentional differences with my stiffening ribs, namely the top one should be closer to the cutouts and a tad longer
can adjust on the final one.. kind of annoying though i'll have to mill a new female die
also fucked up milling the front of the charging handle slot, accidently grabbed an 11/16" with a 5/8" shank instead of a 5/8", so the front is 1/32 too big all around
really sucks, even though this is just the 'test' flat, it would have been nice to have a good looking one


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Slightly better one of the upper
My camera sucks


Can you reuse any of the material you goofed on?


I can reuse some of the tooling, if you mean this receiver nah not really but that's ok
I have a pretty good feel for what not to do, so chances for the next one to be near production quality will be good


Thats cool. Making mistakes is a corner stone of learning. Its pretty impressive what youre doing.


its been a really long time doing this project on and off
tonight, i will try to machine the trunnion


ugh nvm wont happen tonight
tomorrow, if im lucky


ok well i went sunday, almost got it done but accidently scrapped it
unfortunate but i know what to avoid next i suppose


What happened that made you have to scrap it?


so i did the press fit stuff perfect
when i was cutting the features on the bottom my endmill slipped in the collet and i lost some Z without realizing it
it was probly because its a pretty dull end mill, the collet may have been dirty too
anyway i broke through the press fit wall of the trunnion
also snapped the shit out of my 1/4" endmill on a plunge lel
i'll probly post a pic at some point


trying again tonight


FUCK this is gay
tire blew out on the way
so bad the mexican shop in the bad part of town wasn't even willing to patch it
gay gay gay gay gay


>not even the Mexicans will patch it


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got the trunnion made
went mostly ok, made a single mistake that resulted in damage to the front of it (not pictured) that was completely avoidable and I'm retarded
this one is good enough to test, tho


sir STOP lelling..


next time i go, i'll try to machine the barrel extension down and maybe press fit it
also will try to machine the front sight.
thats sort of a complicated on, but once its done thats the last major part
i have to make the cam pin rail too but thats dead simple


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>my phone sucks
yeah it does. Get a goolge pixel like everyone else in the world, fag



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Machined down the shoulder on the barrel extension and press fit it, no issues
Machined the cam pin rail
Welded aforemebtion two things onto receiver
Things are looking promising. Once I get the front sight done I can look at headspacing the barrel, making the rear sight, and test firing


so looks like might barrel extension is canted a degree or so, enough that 2 of the lugs have a very light interference with the bolt. Not sure if I should go through the effort of removing the extension or let it wear in


for further context, it does go into battery


did some troubleshooting with my friend looks like part of the issue was the rail wasn't perfectly aligned and was pressing hard on the cam pin, once the rail got moved things are pretty smooth now


Looking p good fam


thanks i'll post updates if i get some this weekend.. or earlier??!?!


its your world, post them whenever :D


ok so 1st attempt for the front sight
broke my 1/4" 2 flute end mill which i need to do most of the features– confirmed that my placement for the gas port was acceptable, depth of that stuff/thread depth was ok
but then when i tapped it i accidently tapped it an an angle, so its scrap now. i bought enough raw material to make one more, so i'll make a couple tweaks to the design to simplify it plus make a better sequence of cuts now that ive tried it once


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Machined a front sight. Had to leave off some of the more swoopy contours because it was just too complex. Fixture I made for doing the curves was finicky enough that I only used it for the large diameter around the barrel. Had one or two small mistakes but nothing that will affect function.
Once I headspace the barrel, I can drill the gas port and test fire.
oh I still have to make the rear sight though





whoa how many walmarts can you shoot up with that?


i guess that depends how much ammo you have


You have infinite ammo when you repack your used shells =D


thats too autistic even for me


ok the latest:
>tool came in for holding the barrel extension by the lugs
>did preload calcs for the barrel/extension
>did some geometric checks to see if my chamber depth was deep enough to be safe
>figuring out how i'm going to headspace/how im going measure the gap i need for my spacer
that second to last one was kinda interesting
to elaborate a bit, theres a couple different ways that headspace is typically done. the most conservative way would be to make the bore as deep as possible, then adjust from their to get proper headspace. that way the maximum extent of the cartridge is supported
i had no idea what if anything was done with this barrel, because i bought it from some guy outside a UPS warehouse and it has no markings. its pretty weird for these things not to have an extension on it already too.
so what i did was measured how far the gauge sticks out when fully seated, then looked at the internal geometry of the case to see how much needs to be supported to not explode. then some simple geometry to make sure the cartridge is adequately supported throughout the entire safe range of headspace
i need to modify the barrel extension tool to fit inside the receiver, then make essentially a crowfoot to fit split clamp that ive got on the barrel so i can torque it to the range i need. since the shoulder on the barrel is further up than the proper headspace range, i'll need to machine a spacer to fill the gap. that spacer needs to be the proper size so that after im done torquing to the number i determined, the barrel will be in the safe headspace range


i made the crowfoot, the machining went great came out beautiful, then the welding went mostly ok except one of my welds looked a little ugly so i was going to do a pass over with teh tig torch but i forgot to turn the shielding gas on and it did fucking NASTY stuff
spent like 2 hours trying to clean the weld up to something that didn't look like disgusting
also i added a relief cut to the barrel extension tool, so it fits now (it didn't fit before).
that was a obnoxious


It's crazy to think you've taken all this time and precision creating this, and there's probably kids stamping parts in my huts in Africa and South East Asia for the same reason. Really makes you wonder.


>probably kids stamping parts in my huts in Africa and South East Asia for the same reason
wait if they're your huts why wouldn't you know if they're stamping parts or not?
and why do you have huts in africa and south east asia??




Mud huts*


>forgot to turn the shield gas on
damn man did you go full retard and shit it up entirely or just zapped it real quick and realized you fucked up?


i went full retard for like a full few seconds wondering why this thing was popping and bubbling all over the place
it turned out fine tho, grind it down, went back over it. a bit of porosity but double sided fillet was overkill anyway
headspacing went super smooth. very easy, i've got a good system now. cheap too


designing a rear sight
hope to make the rear sight wings this weekend


you should prolly still double check it after the first time firing it but you know what youre doing good luck


i'll be extensively checking brass, primarily


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Well it looks like a gun now
3d printing a stand in rear sight now. Have a bit of cleanup to do on the rear sight since I made it by hand
Will finish welding next time. Rear sight wing holes didn't line up, so will need to plug a side and redrill.
Did some other stuff too including some fuckups, I'll write those up later


Looking good my guy


ur lookin good bby 😎


did some naaaasty welding on the rear wings, contouring them to look nice with the dremel
i dont really care tbh im gonna hammertone rattle can this bitch to hide most flaws anyway
debating whether i'll even parkerize it


got a lot of cosmetic flaws cleaned up this week (lots of welding, grinding, filing)
i didn't want to do any of that but i just can't fucking help myself
i still have a couple spots i need to weld (finish the seam on the receiver) but then thats it
then i'll sandblast it (probly with playsand like ive done before), then wash it, parkerize it, prime the exterior, then hammertone paint.
oh also still have to clean up the front sight block, drill the gas port etc
gettin pretty close tho, most of the major construction is done


another 6ish hours of grinding/sanding
i've got most of the weird cosmetic flaws feathered into the good stuff
i have a lot of experience doing dremel magic after i did the CETME a few years back
being a lot less careful this time though since its going to get a thick hammertone paintjob which will hide even big fuckups
i also split the difference for the charging handle opening where i drill the hole 1/16 too big, i enlarged 1/32 both sides and blended it over the full 4-5 inches
hides pretty well. looks decent
action is feeling very smooth. with the dog leg charging handle i can still induce a malfunction if i push or pull down on at, but i think im ok with that. shouldn't happen during firing, and this is just a prototype so im willing to make compromises. i really dont want to have to push this thing out and repress fit it at the right orientation, although that would be the proper action.


nothing is worse than a malfunctioning dog leg charging handle…


whats wrong with the charging handle does it keep barking at you?


File: 1658288018495.png (10.37 MB, 3264x2448, 4:3, ClipboardImage.png)

so with a regular charging handle, the handle itself isn't very long.
the dog leg one comes out about 2-3 times as far, and is also offset way above, pic related.
the result is its pretty easy to torque the guide rods pretty hard. easy enough to rotate the entire bolt carrier a couple degrees
well my locking legs are already sllightly canted because i didn't press the barrel extension perfectly aligned, so pulling down on the charging handle can induce a malfunction where the bolt lugs can't rotate far enough to unlock fully


better post vids of testin


how bad does it get stuck if you do that? like you gotta kick the shit to loosen it or just smack it a little?


File: 1658360422803.png (16.19 KB, 500x250, 2:1, Oekaki.png)

as in 100% stuck while in the induced position
kaki for illustration. in normal conditions, theres enough clearance for the bolt to clear the lugs. when charged at the wrong angle, with the dog leg charging handle, its possible to rotate the entire bolt carrier/guide rods/ bolt enough to suck up that clearance and prevent fully unlocking
if it were to get fired in that position may well tear off a portion of the lugs during unlocking. it wouldn't be dangerouse unless unnoticed and i were to keep firing
will post another pic in a second showing a bolt and lugs in case you're not familiar


File: 1658360649056.gif (964.27 KB, 720x404, 180:101, giphy.gif)

heres an ar15 cutaway gif which has an essentially identical locking system


finished my welding, went really well. got my settings figured out on my welder finally. used a big piece of aluminum as backing. easy and clean
then spent 3 hours trying to get my siphon blaster to work. compressor is way too tiny, too much moisture in the air. won't pull. nozzle worn out. not enough siphon effect


woah that thang can kinda kill nigrs


ok i'll post progress pictures today
last night i drilled the gas port, dimpled the barrel for a set screw, and threaded the front sight (for said set screw)
i wanted to sand blast but im having a hell of a time getting my siphon blaster to work.. i think my air is too wet. what a pain…


File: 1658714678245.jpg (1.23 MB, 1920x2560, 3:4, IMG_20220724_134440032.jpg)

Handguard length exceeded the dimensions of barrel journal and handguard retaining ring (about 1/16).

Likely reason is that trunnion is longer than actual. Handguards and retaining ring were shaved down the required length at front for gas block to position properly.

Trunnion was not installed straight. Misaligned by about 1/8 over 12 inches. Makes front sight block appear canted. Seems to be within workable tolerance of the piston system.


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Fuck other pics didn't post.
Shown are the gas port, fitup of the retaining ring/front sight/handguards


File: 1658715966196.mp4 (62.49 MB, 1920x1080, 16:9, AssemblyCompressed.mp4)

quick video showing assembly and getting a few angles on it

if you saw the blem above the gas port with the tap wrench pic, tis because my edge finder jumped the edge and gouged the journal. wild what machine tools can do


lookin great budy. do you have to make custom mags for it too or is it compatible with factory shit?


they take stock AR mags
even the original AR18 took slightly modified AR mags
so im set


Does it fire 5.56?


it does


can't wait for a video of it shooting at thangs


give me directions to Ironton, Ohio


thread protector came in, looks kinda gay but wtver i can't put a flash hider on it here legally
also decided to get my handguard 3d printed because its fucking cool for me to have designed all the furniture, the website is broken and accepts expired coupons that are supposed to be way more expensive shit, and i wanna see how closely i was able to reverse engineer them. they should arrive next week sometime
also need to make a new rear sight and system for how the rear sight adjusts, last set didn't work


File: 1659994682769.png (39.63 KB, 532x333, 532:333, ClipboardImage.png)

nice, handguards should be here wednesday
hope they fit


I would've invested in a sneeze guard instead


w-ww-w-w-ww-ww-w-w—ww-w-w-whatdo you mean????!??!?!??? .. ?1


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Got the heat shield flats cut out
After I do the bends I'll cut out the remaining material
Then I'll clean up any ugly eges and sandblast it with the rest of the stuff to give it a dull finish


Bout ready to brougleigh them niggas huh?


File: 1660089228670.png (740.76 KB, 600x800, 3:4, ClipboardImage.png)

ok nerd lmaoo


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So my handguard design came in
Pretty damn close. The profiles are nearly identical, only some of the smaller details are different. I had to modify them in a similiar fashion as the original, so my model still isn't quite right. This was a cool one to get on, glad I did it


File: 1660283025988.jpg (40.06 KB, 600x600, 1:1, 783642.jpg)

for salads dear sir…


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So I spent the afternoon bending my heatshields on a fingerbreak. Had to get creative with the bend order and special fixturing to complete the bends. They didn't turn out perfect, but they'll work and look alright.
After bending them I spent a few hours with a Dremel and files to cut out the holes, clean up edges etc.
Now I just need the screws


gud gunr budy how much pak dogs it can maek ded?


now i wish i had a garage and some badass tools to make this kind of shit


if you have the time and REALLY have the tism, you can do a lot of this with a dremel, a set of files, and a vice.


i do not have enough tism for doing it with small hand tools where can i buy more autism?


i can loan you mine, but it doesn't come cheap.


what will 10 /sp/ollars buy me?


CRowjob for 10 minutes or to completion, whichever cums first.


any more work on it? hows she shootin?
also where tf do i get bdu surplus for cheap online?


don't keep us updated


this spigger does not speak for spartmen, spartmanchan.org, or it's administration


>hows she shooting
im slowly working on a rear sight. mostly im in an indecision loop, but i did finally make a choice and will probably try to make it this weekend
also making an mlok rail for mounting optics
>bdu for cheap
a real local surplus store would be best bet. most stores these day only stock new manufac cheap chinese shit and dont even have any surplus, tho
you can sometimes find good deals on ebay from vets dumping all their shit at once


who u mag dumpin that bad boy at


hopin to go make the mlok rail tonight, was going to last week but caught the meme flu instead


oh wow you're makin a moloch rifle wow really fuckin
john podesta SICKO


thx shorky
kinda rear you going? going to co-witness?
sure you have optics already but got a primary arms prism, 10/10 for me wont buy anything else now


ngl not entirely sure where its going to end up, at the very least its not going to cowitness because the original irons are so low. might be in the bottom 1/3? i wont really know till i get it together
i have a trijicon MRO i'll put on it


also ive heard good things about primary arms.. someday i'll buy


hat cowitness man, just feels cluttered to me. put angled flips on, works well for me. u smithin the sights?
jealous of that red dot man, asstigmatism cucked


ya ive got a rear sight design ive made, played with the 3d mockup and its alright. it gets in the way of the guiderod for takedown, but im pretty sure thats how the original must have been as well. a nitpick with the design than anything else


yah I wouldn't do anything else until you fix that guiderod issue


guiderod getting in the way? that isn't normal


go to 0:44 and 0:57 in >>913
see how the guide rod gets pushed into the upper for assembly/disassembly?
well when the rear sight is actually in there it gets pretty tight
on mine the upper is tight enough that the friction actually holds the guide rod in unless i futz with it slightly
well its pretty awkward when you have hte actual sight in there, very space limited
some options are to shift the sight so its foward biasedi nstead of rear biased (i'll post my sight design soon so you see what i mean
im not sure i care enough tho, i just want to finish this so i can work on the drawing so other people can make it too/ make the updated/modernized version that uses modern off the shelf parts


don't finish it until the guiderod issue is fixed


i made some changes to the design… will post pics for you in a sec


File: 1663902530020.png (78.53 KB, 455x432, 455:432, ClipboardImage.png)

the old style…


File: 1663902682087.png (48.98 KB, 755x644, 755:644, ClipboardImage.png)

its a bent sheet metal piece for the peep site… a fastener holds it against a threaded piece that is windage adjustable. a stack of half a dozen-a dozen belleville washers in between the sheet metal sight and the windage piece allow for a bit of elevation adjustment, and keep the sight snug in place.


File: 1663902881422.png (88.23 KB, 545x523, 545:523, ClipboardImage.png)

a 1/16 pin goes through the windage dial fastener right next to the head, as well as through a brass sleeve (bearing surface). that slots into a notch cut into the windage dial and keeps them together. once the windage is set, it would get pinned in place by putting a roll pin through the side of the sight wing, preventing the nut from rotating


File: 1663902989915.png (133.9 KB, 690x637, 690:637, ClipboardImage.png)

the new one, based off my experience with the 3d printing, is flipped around to face forward. wings have been added to help retain the sight a little better (should be very snug now).
this clears up the space needed for pushing the guide rod in for disassembly


File: 1663903033606.png (35.19 KB, 566x496, 283:248, ClipboardImage.png)

new rear view


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a quick example of what it may look like if you were to find one of these puppies in an abandoned lot


got the optics rail made tonight
will try to get its mounting pads welded on tomorrow, and have some pics posted


File: 1664095804114.png (143.55 KB, 631x764, 631:764, ClipboardImage.png)

CAD of my mlok optics rail, it has a C profile for rigidity, and mounts to some mounting pad welded to the top of the receiver
real pic coming next


File: 1664096185570.jpg (939.76 KB, 1920x2560, 3:4, IMG_20220924_191521607.jpg)

Welded on, cleaned a little bit. Some more cleanup left. Mlok rail coming Monday, can get the red dot mounted then
Made the rear sight base. Huge bitch, not complicated but tired and scrapped 2 other attempts. Still have a hole on it to drill and tap, plus some file work. Then make the rear sight


need a vid


ugh, not right now im in public


i've got some plans on making the tool i need to deep draw the rear sight drum.. im very curious if it will work


File: 1664161197779.png (4.93 MB, 2560x1920, 4:3, ClipboardImage.png)

rear sight mostly made, some filing left to do to get a better fit, trimming the sight post up a bit, and a drilled/tapped hole. this is definitely a part that could be 3d printed, too much of a bitch to machine this crap


as it this gets closer to completion and i start to shift over to the drawing portion of the project– any suggestions on how to distribute the info? ideal would be relatively easy to access, and neigh impossible to take down.
P2P? a QR code to a magnet, maybe?


File: 1664240613185.jpg (943.05 KB, 2560x1920, 4:3, IMG_20220926_175638388.jpg)

Lol it's ugly
Optic is a bit high. Iron sight obscured. Oh well lol. Maybe I'll buy the quick detach mount for the trijicon


File: 1664246311244.png (1.66 MB, 1345x1754, 1345:1754, ClipboardImage.png)



i lik it


lick what?



sir someone posted this photo and made a threat with it
be more careful


keep it to yourself or i'll blast you too


so looking at pictures and comparing it to the original optics mounting system for the gun, it actually looks like the optics height is simiiar
kind of feels like how an AK with an optic is


got the rear sight base completed, needs some extra springs and i messed up in a spot or two, but fine other than that
not a great design but for the prototype i've accepted it


the prototype isn't ready until you fix up the springs


hey mom found the gun and she said she would call the cops unless I got it out of her house so Im done with this project
anyone around the san fran area wanna buy it from me??


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Rear sight, screw made. 3d printed dial until I get the legit one made


i've got parts on the way to try making a deep drawing punch/die for the rear sight dial


shoot and kill mill


I mean mil


File: 1664953629847.jpg (950.66 KB, 2560x1920, 4:3, IMG_20221005_000314950.jpg)

Well, that's a wrap for parts. Test fire, phosphating, and painting all that's left.
Late, so I'll post pictures of the tool I made to make the rear dial. Went very well


lookin gud
hear synagogues have mannequins runnin around for practice and if u shoot the tiny hat bullseye off u win a kewpie doll


woah really i'll have to check that out


File: 1665099012170.png (313.46 KB, 329x640, 329:640, ClipboardImage.png)


need a vid, your at work??


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No vid I'm at work.
Here's the shallow drawing tool I made
Disassembled and assembled. Note the sheet metal blank
Also I took a vid of the actual process but it didn't save 😭


check on dudder for us


he's fine


describe his mom..


kinda looks like shorkcels sister


she's a lot qter than my sister tbqphwyf


u lik milf?


U know it budy 😘


post the video already
also; thoughts on 300AAC SBR suppressed


I'm pretty ehhhhh about new-ish cartridges in general. Tbh I don't know enough about them to give a properly informed opinion.
I'm not particularly interested in suppressors beyond putting them on subguns


also im gonna try to drive out to a local forest to get some testing in..
if things go well, can move onto the finish and be finished


went to forest
good to go 👍🏼
video taken. getting posted at some point


File: 1665965157133.mp4 (19.4 MB, 1080x1920, 9:16, test.mp4)


cut your hair you fuckin hippy holy FUCK


the lady who cuts my hair has been on vacation back to vietnam ;_;


lookin smoov budy, any malfs, misf, or milfs?
how u likin sights?


File: 1666016679218.png (6.86 KB, 500x250, 2:1, Oekaki.png)

1 malfunction, related to >>892
kaki of ejection port cutout, exagerated for effect
basically in battery, theres enough room for the charging handle to walk out because that diameter of the circle i cut was too large
something that happened while shooting was it walked out in front, then when you shot it would shove the handle into the slot and get stuck
i had theorized this might happen, solution was going to be to add a c-clip to the handle so that there was some material still below the sheet metal lip so it wouldn't walk


oh and the sights suck lol. lot of glare, aperature a bit too big. just a strip of sheet metal so i could redo it without too much trouble but… really dont want to lol


ez fixes, not bad for garage ar18 at all, jealous af
gonna at least paint sight? be huge prob if had to use it
at least get gf to steal nail polish


ive got some finishing sandpaper and dremel work i wann do, then i'll blast it, parkerize it, and paint the outside. im gonna use a black hammertone (to hide flaws. also interestingly the SAR80 which is basically a direct offspring came with mottled paint coating by default)



holy digits. holy comment.


stop deleting thangz


File: 1666114935939.jpg (5.02 KB, 97x121, 97:121, shorkcel.jpg)


I reported a duplicated kaki and it was (rightfully) deleted, just line this shit thread should be


fak u you rulecuck piece of shit


>picture of duder
>labeled shorkcel


File: 1666132237942.jpg (2.22 MB, 3280x2460, 4:3, 1665711074345-3.jpg)

no this is dudder


File: 1666139310766.png (27.67 KB, 500x250, 2:1, Oekaki.png)

no we are all duddicus


same fucking person you face blind retard he just has a mustache in that one pic


shorkcel what's your new /h/ project now that this gun is done


Do it again. Better design for tools. Compatibility with off the shelf BRN-180 bolt carrier group, gas system components. Then I would sell or release the plans for free– sell build kits consisting of the trunnion, receiver flat, sight wings, gas block, furniture etc etc
also thinking of trying a clean sheet design




this is a terrible yim
cease immediately


I was thinking more of a vintage car restoration kinda thing


no i hate cars they're a fucking massive time and money pit they're the worst thing ever shitty shitty hobby.


make a sawed off shotgun next


cool post


looking to get blasting and parkerizing done this weekend


reported to the feds for thingken about blastin up in a public park


do you make knives and stuff too


been making hammers and going on dates lately



is that really shorkcel I'm confused


don't be confused


File: 1667365558720.png (168.14 KB, 318x454, 159:227, ClipboardImage.png)

not yet but i'd like to make at least one knife
i bought this a while ago
and my coworker (who is literally fucking blind as a bat, 20/250 vision) made a really nice lookin tanto knife, so i'd like to pick his brain


sometimes you just need a bigger stronger guy to make you feel safe and less confused…


this spigga MATHS


you cant say that word thats OUR word


i degreased parts today
will try to get things blasted and phosphated sometime tomorrow


engineerbro, how to make a lathe without using another lathe?


you just handbuild a 'shitty' one, then you use that one to make a better one
p. basic tbh


use your friends lathe


use a drilldo


fucked up my parkerizing, even ended up getting some of the solution on the grill (its a manganese-phosphate soution) so that shits probly NOT good
literally accomplished nothing except messing up my sandblasting. i'll alternately rub it down with 120 grit aluminum oxide media and a toothbrush, then i'll brush it with some warm acid to try and induce an even layer of rust
then boil it in water. should convert the oxide layer into magnetite
can be done multiple times


sounds fucking hot


the parkerizing is in the range of 190F, the rust bluing ofc is at 212F


wont that just evolve it into magneton?


just tap b during the evolution and it will stop…




Zoomer quit at work so now I'm doing the work of 4 people. Made some really neat simulation tools at work but no progress here


you will ping me in next weeks nfl thread if any progress is made


ok, i'll try and get you something to look at in the next week


specify what you mean by something


heem gonna upload feet pics


ive figured out how im going to rust blue this thing
part of the issue is its a bitch to actually find a container long enough (27ish inches), thats not fuck yuge (say, a 50 gallon drum) to boil this thing in
i had a thought that maybe i could steam it for teh same effect, and found someone who did something similiar online
so i'll build my steaming apparatus this weekend. i have some 6" PVC thats long enough to do that. i'll put it over a pot of boiling water on a hot plate.


you know what they say about guys with soft hands


they've got soft cocks?


ok i did some messin around with rust bluing yesterday. just the small parts, so i can do it in a pot
ya it seems to work alright. definitely some lessons learned
>very sensitive to grease
>better to paint the rust solution on rather than dunk it
>not entirely sure if it matters how you 'card', the superficial layer of magnetite seems to rub right off. maybe carding with more aggresive abrasives makes the final finish more durable??


File: 1670791371073.jpg (1.27 MB, 1920x2560, 3:4, IMG_20221211_121334415.jpg)

So the results from my second attempt:

Pictured dried.

Some of the issues: inconsistent surface finish. Some spots just never really rusted properly and converted to magnetite, specifically on the rear sight dial. Might be because of the forming process pushes the grease into every microscopic crevice

Also some pitting from my accelerated rusting process. I think getting a nice consistent rust on the first shot is important, and will put more effort into degreasing in the future

The finish is awesome after oiling tho, very slick and slippery, and a deep deep black color


File: 1670793315668.png (5.93 KB, 500x250, 2:1, Oekaki.png)

harassment was requested and it will be delivered sexually


this thang jus shoot airsoft don't it quit playin


ya it does hey wanna play airsoft sometime?


spent the past 3 days experimenting with making my own rust blue process, been making some really good headway

giving a quick writeup of the process ive been through, some observations, and where i'm headed
so my first attempt the day before >>1239, learned you really do need to degrease well and (didn't know this yet) deaerate your water

>>1240 second attempt involved dropping parts directly into a vat of hydrogen peroxide salt solution. reaction was vigorous, and continous as rust flaked off and continued to react with the solution even without parts. process was tedious (went at least a dozen cycles), finish was splotchy, and surface had some pitting

monday i started the process of looking for a better method. i found one that involves making a solution of vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and salt, then wiping a thin layer onto a heated work piece. i tried this successfuly, however for anything beyond simple geometry it becomes very tedious. dipping a piece into the solution resulted in splotchy surface with accelerated localized corrosion resulting in pitting. it also required many applications to before it was ready to go in the boiling water.

i was going to do a writeup on what i think is going on with the chemistry, but its so much of a guess that i decided to delete it. instead i'll just post observations.
>higher temps result in faster rusting in general (duh)
>lower 'wetted' durations (less submerged time + heated drying time) resulted in a more even rust without flakes or pitting
>surface tension of water results in beading causes streaks and dots when drying submerged pieces.
>acid solutions may speed up rust reaction, but seems more superficial (wipes off) and more prone to flakes/pitting
>significantly heating up an even rust layer in air appears to cause a beneficial reaction (turns brown, doesn't rub off)
>if water isn't deaerated corrosion continues during boiling

so something i realized early on is this process is fucking tedious and i dont want to do it a lot. its not realistic for me to to do this without dunking. dunking causes issues with spottiness and runs. i theorized it was due to the water beading up. isopropyl alcohol readily mixes with 3% hydrogen peroxide and acted as an effective surficant. dunking of test pieces has resulted in an even, durable rust. work is still ongoing but progressing well.


you didn't ping me in the nfl thread


yes i did >>>/sp/>>1522668


fuck >>>/sp/1522668


I wasn't there when you posted that


>i wasn't there
an executable offense


so while the rubbing alcohol helps with wetting, it seems to cause other issues causing localized corrosion. I think it has something to do with the salt
I'm moving towards a 2 step process involving a priming agent and am oxidiser. For my rusting agent I want something polar that doesn't leave a residue, react with salt, and has a low surface tension. Oxidiser will be hydrogen peroxide


testing stuff out with methanol now…
strong stuff. a shot of it feels like 3 shots of vodka


so i was hoping the methanol could work as a primer but it seems like despite being polar it cant absorb enough salt to really do the job great. i know the stuff mixes well with water, maybe the two combined could lower the surface tension enough and have enough salt to be effective like that.

it does seem to mix very well with hydrogen peroxide tho, and ive been trying it as a single mixture again. you can definitely tell the surface tension is low, stuff wets beautifully. might have some minor pitting issues? hard to tell before you're completely done


wew ok not gonna fuck with methanol anymore
been drying parts off that were dipped in the shit for a few hours now
didn't realize JUST how toxic this shit is


File: 1671347290997-0.png (65.04 KB, 994x682, 497:341, ClipboardImage.png)

File: 1671347290997-1.png (76.91 KB, 999x514, 999:514, ClipboardImage.png)

ok not like im gonna do any of this because ive already scared myself fucking around haphazardly with poison, but this open AI shit is fucking amazing. not that i would trust the results, but god damn does it give you a place to start digging. from what i can tell, its making the same guesses i am


so bizarre, you the chatbox can do really complex shit, but manage to screw up stuff like providing proper NFPA hazard diamond values. thats the sorta shit that has its data tabulated, you'd think thats what it gets correct.


russians actually give a shit about making chemistry info available, apparently



>doesnt fuck around haphazardly with poison


Don't worry see >>1258


Oops I meant >>1255
see >>1255


yadda yadda yadda are you gonna FUCK this AI or can i?


he only creates cuckold stories about his pinay gf with it


haven't tried yet tbh

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