No.1687
>>1681>i think i actually did lose all my FAL updates in the wipeDamn, well archive this thread before faggatron decideds to be a fuck wit again ;-;
No.1688
>>1687ive got all the pics on my phone, i'll move them over to my laptop at some point
No.1690
since i lost my recipe that i had results with last time, i had to do a little trial and error to rediscover the solution
after some fine tuning, i'll start recording qty of materials and do a bunch of tests to get it working well. notes below
test notes:
started with glass of hydrogen peroxide, added sodium chloride until saturated. added more hydrogen peroxide until all sodium chloride was in solution. process repeated with soda ash.
no visible reaction was observed when placing test sample into solution. applying 8V resulted in bubbles forming at the anode and cathode. the test sample attached to the anode quickly developed pinnpoint corrosion, and the solution began to take on a rusty color
even after removal of the sample, the solution continued to generate bubbles and react. reaction eventually concluded.
removed sample had a heavy buildup of red and black oxide. wiping off excess and boiling the test piece resulted in mottled black oxide coat. pitting was visually apparent, but too small to be felt.
a second test piece was degreased and placed in solution. no visible reaction was observed upon its entry. applying 2V resulted in bubbles being generated at the anode and cathode. a thick, mostly even coat of black oxide with no visible red oxide was generated. upon wiping off excess and boiling, the final results were a durable but mottled and inconsistent black oxide coating.
No.1691
>>1690quick correction, at 2V bubbles are not forming at the cathode.
doing tests with test piece 3. keeping amperage between .1 amp and .08. when it drops that low i take it out and card it.
i'll have to investigate alternative carding techniques (pressure washing? liquid abrasive etc?) because the entire point of doings this is that the internals aren't accesible for traditional carding
No.1695
de-aerated some water and dosed it with sodium carbonate and sodium chloride
got black oxide development right off the bat. think my understanding of it is decent now
i think i have a rudimentary understanding of whats happening now.
next will brush up on chemistry… get the reactions written out proper like
No.1696
determining the region black oxide formation can occur right now
i did a test with sodium carbonate saturated solution and worked my way up with salt until black oxide formation was observed, then kept working up until salt saturation was observed
next i'll start with a salt saturated solution and hopefully i'll manage to get a condition where the oxide gets formed, then it'll give me a range of electrolyte solution that i know 'something' happens in
after that it will be a systematic approach of filling in data points and noting the quality of the coatings
No.1701
>>1699thanks the camera hides the flaws but it is pretty dark and durable
really very odd that theres nothing about doing this online. theres no way i could possibly be the first, right? just the first to document online?
just bizarre tho. hot and medium hot bluing are too difficult or toxic for people at home. rust bluing is extremely tedious, and cold bluing doesn't hold up well
you would have thought somebody would try to do this before
No.1702
>>1701>you would have thought somebody would try to do this beforeYou're probably not the first. That'd be award worthy if so. I seem to recall reading some smithing tutorials on tor about 100 years ago. Couldn't tell you how accurate they were or any of that. You're doing the lords work.
No.1704
>>1702gonna try and get the other bounding line tonight, I just finished working and I've got a couple hours before yeem get sleepy
after that I might try a test on a larger scale. Already made something to hold a trash bag, made out of chicken wire and wood plank stiffeners
see if this works on a 8ish gallon scale
No.1708
as an FYI the numbers above are range of 1-1/4 tsp - 2-1/4 tsp sodium carbonate and 3/4 tsp - 3.5 tsp sodium chloride in 1/2 cup of water
No.1709
ok made a batch right in the middle of the range (1.75 tsp sodium carbonate, 2.125 sodium chloride)
i'm going to slowly increase the current now and see how if theres a range that yields the best results
No.1710
File: 1688442037576.jpg (345.01 KB, 1674x1631, 1674:1631, IMG_20230703_201606257~2.jpg)
Gorgeous finish.
That rubs right off :(
No.1713
>>1712speculation, but i think the higher salt concentrations leave a more superficial coating. seemed like that during the oxide region testing too
No.1928
Top
No.1949
very exiciting results from tonights experiment. will be posting the results shortly, i hope.
No.1950
>>1949:D
weve been in suspense
No.1954
also i now think that the process is actually
>ferric carbonate (black layer)
>iron hydroxide (white precipitate)
are building up on the anode
when ferric carbonate is heated up it decomposes to rust and carbon dioxide
when it gets boiled its probably decomposing to rust, then immediately converting to black oxide
i'll have to take a torch to my test piece, see if heating it up turns it to rust or not. that will tell me if its iron carbonate or black oxide
No.1956
>>1955thanks i did my torch test today
i dont have a clue about whats going on, but its a dark plum color now which is also kinda cool. doesn't seem like its any less durable, doenst seem to be rust
i also did a test where i tried removing loose material with my hose on a new test piece in the backyard but it wasn't very succesful
i might just get a Bransom 8210 for using in between plating sessions
No.1957
bit the bullet and got a good deal on a used Branson 8210 ultrasonic cleaner
the manual instructions for testing if the transducer is functioning properly
supposedly the seller will repair or refund for equipment that isnt functioning right
they probly dont even know that the testing procedures exist, so i should have a good deal no matter what
No.1960
is gunsmith cats any good or is it just more circlejerking reference books because actual toys are britain levels of banned?
and where do we stand on full wooden furniture on the FAL?
No.1962
>>1960i enjoyed the anime. too short of a show to know how developed the characters are, but whoever wrote it had a good understanding of firearms and related american culture. better most
weiamerican writers, modern especially.
No.1963
>>1960also what do you mean full wooden furniture on the FAL?
it has all wood
No.1964
>>1963not the grip, often not the stock and sometimes not even the handguard
but on the other hand i think once I saw a wood carry handle, idk how i feel about that
No.1966
>>1964Oh you just mean what my opinion is on it?
i thought you were asking about my FAL build
practically, my preference would be all polymer. superior to wood in almost every way imaginable.
aesthetically, i think the west german's G1 FAL is the most attractive, with a mix of polymer or wood grips, wood stock, and sheet metal forend.
No.1968
>>1960all wood furniture usually only looks gud on ww2 era or earlier rifles imo
smgs assault rifles machine guns all that other extra fun shit should be either polymer or straight up metal unless youre going full artist autist and having everything engraved in which case wood can sometimes look
rally gud on something like a FAL but then you wont be doing anything but looking at it because at that point its just an art piece
part of the reason i hate classic aks is because the wood combined with the metal everything else looks fuckin stupid to me
t. timber hating sperg
No.1969
>>1968ya but FAL and AK are both essentially WW2 designs
first prototype FAL was in '46, i think even earlier than the first prototype AK
No.1970
>>1968i miss the look of oldworld designs tbh
pure sovl
everything these days is superior in performance and manufacturing technique.. but it so lifeless. extruded aluminum and modular is fucking boring
No.1982
branson 8210 arrived today
didn't pass the graphite test, but did pass the foil test
will be doing a repeat of
>>1952 but with ultrasonic instead of manual carding
No.1983
ok some pics will be going up soon from todays experiments
>the good
steaming works great
and the ultrasonic cleaner takes off loose material almost instantly (10ish seconds)
>the bad
i was hoping that doing more thorough cardings using the ultrasonic cleaner would result in not losing any coating during the boiling/steaming, but that hasn't been the case
since it doesn't seem to matter if i card in between electroplating sessions, im going to try only doing it after a boiling
plus i'll only do 1 electroplate session between boilings, since if its built up heavy 75% of it just seems to come off anyway
so the new method i'll be trying out is
>electroplate
>boil
>ultrasonic
>repeat
No.1986
>>1985>worked findfuck, brain rot.
worked fine*
No.1987
>>1985>but its not the most attractive thing in the worldHow does it function over all, and are you the kind of person who would prefer functionality over looks? If so shouldn't be a problem right? All in all looking p gud budy
No.1988
>>1987>how does it functiondunno yet
i'll probly do a salt atmosphere test similiar to MIL-STD-883G. i bought a shitty ultrasonic humidifier for such a purpose
considering how porous it is, it will probly be decent
>who would prefer functionality over looksnot really, but it would be nice to have the option
No.2027
Will try to set up a steam conversion test later today on a bigger piece to confirm it will work in the 18
If it does, I'll be setting up for the real deal this weekend.
No.2028
>>2027did not work.
might have to try the 'hanging pipe' method that old boomer on youtube did
No.2029
>>2028Boomers be knowing some stuff.
No.2032
>>2029ive not found that to particularly be the case
No.2164
>last post august
put down the flip and post update
No.2168
>>2164i've been busy
setting all the paperwork for a business to
get YUGE tax benefits when
i buy a 40k CNC machine to
build firearms in my garage on the downlow clear?
No.2169
>>2168Loud and error posting
No.2172
>>2168fuk yeah. makin amigos with the ese to helter skelter?
No.2338
oxide coatings seem to be stable sitting in my garage
once i get my garage setup i think i'll go back to doing some oxide tests, maybe try it on some strips and leave it outside
No.2340
>>2338Is that a meny success on that oxidizing or nah? How's everything else, get da machine?
No.2341
>>2340seems to go well
i just finished redoing my water supply piping, finally got the drywall back up textured and painted, and mounted an electrical subpanel so i can rewire stuff later
now its ripping up the carpet, all the fucking carpet glue, and then grinding the floors flat and sealing them before i put the machine base in place
No.2342
>>2341>grind floors flatUsing those grinders is a real pain in the dick and if your floor isnt level it will take for ever to grind away at it like that. Id suggest scrapping the piss outta them, then hitting it hard with a buffer and a real coarse screen.
t. did them floors before
No.2343
>>2342ya i member your floors
my floor has a joint that runs through the middle of it, and the slab on either side is cocked up a bit so its a high point
theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue too. shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor and its insanely hard to scrape off
i might try dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the side
No.2344
>>2343>dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the sideThat will create exactly the mess you think it will. Mek might work better.
>shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor No surprise there. These fucks never think of the next guy who has to come through. Total hacks did that, I'll bet they got paid by the gallon too
No.2345
>>2344im gonna borrow a friends vibratory dremel and try a scraping blade first
No.2353
yeaa ended up using a diamond grinder on an angle grinder.
i'll be done in about 4 hours, with maybe another couple using an orbital to smooth out any parts with rough aggragate
No.2354
>>2343>theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue tooman i had to get rid of a small patch of that shit in my house when i tore the carpet up im sorry you have to deal with more of it that was easily one of the more aggravating experiences ive had fixing this shitheap up
No.2357
>>2353>orbitalYeah that's a key part before you seal it. Doesn't sound like as big a pain in the dick as it could have been. Post pix pls
No.2358
>>2354>>2357angle grinder is doing fucking work
definitely teh way to go
its a little scary because its really aggressive but just going methodically and calmly… i'll be done in about 4 hours at this rate
if i started this way i'd be done twice over now
No.2359
i'll post some pictures this weekend
i also did electrical conduit for the outdoor lighting which was just ran with bare romex through the garage and redid the copper water supply piping from when the plumbers did a fix for a slab leak
also replaced all the shitty drywall they did and put in a sub panel, which i'll be fucking with later
my mains panel is a bit of a fire hazard so i'll be getting creative with my wiring to reuse all the existing wires but not exceed the stab rating of the fucking breakers like it is now
No.2363
when i have some time later i'll see if i can't get a photo dump of the other work so far
No.2364
>>2363Lookin forward to it. Good to see stuff to inspire me to do more projects around the house.
No.2365
>>2364ok i organized them into a folder on my phone but its like 75 photos, so gonna take me a while to move them over
No.2398
>>2394i'll excuse the foot pic
but may wanna delete that last one nice to get it in before the triple digits. be shittin in style soon
No.2403
>>2394nice frankenposts monster
No.2492
i'm still working on my stuff but its a nightmare, 1 of the 4 sections of my garage was poured with too much water by the house builders, so its very weak, spalls like crazy, and they had a bunch of wood chips mixed in with teh aggregate that rotted and left a fuck ton of voids
in short, i have a fucking ton of little repairs im doing and its holding me up
No.2495
>>2492why would there be wood chips mixed in i thought concrete pads were typically poured before any woodwork was done? idk shit about construction
No.2499
>>2495short answer, shitty builders
im sure the mix got contaminated. maybe a real windy day blowing debris from neighboring construction. maybe builder using a fucked up plank to mix, level, or otherwise work the concrete
anyway today i use some Sakcrete Top'N Bond
it's a polymer concrete mix that can be used for up to 2" down to skim coat
i mixed in some charcoal to make it dark **did too much tbh, shits almost black) and after chiselling all the cracks and cleaning i filled it in
shits kinda hard to work. after 3 hours i came back with the razor scraper to take off most the excess. next i'll use orbital sander with 80 grit to take it back down to base level
if the concrete wasn't so spalled it would look real clean with a dark fill like that (light fills always stand out like a sore thumb, pic rel. spalling is so bad it will probably look a bit dirty but i can live with that, as long as its nice and smooth
i'll probly do a second coat to cover that entire quarter of the slab. i still have other voids and other stuff to fill, and i might as well only do the sanding once.
No.2504
>>2499>might as well do the sanding onceYeah man that dust is a bitch once you get sanding. Imo that’s the best idea. Be sure to cover anything left in the garage with plastic or something really well to keep the dust off/out of everything. Lookin good so far keep plugging away
No.2505
>>2504i've actually grinded the entire garage down once already with diamond wheel and shopvac setup
like 4 or 5 entire shopvac fills of mastic/carpet adhesive, shit was nasty and even catch 99% of it it STILL got fookin everywhere
i did
>>2499 over the weekend but the top n bond has a bit of aggregate in it, so it didn't get any of the pinholes
i can slurry coat it and the polymer blend is actually so good that even with wayyyy too much water it still way fucking stronger than my current concrete even with only 12 hours of curing
No.2521
40% of my refinish sanded to 80 grit so far, can probably get it to 80% tomorrow
the surface was a lot less consistent than i thought, so the dark filler is wayy more prominent than i was expecting
not great but not terrible either. is buttery smooth, tho.
STILL can't get the pinholes, but i think i'm just going to leave it. only so much one can do, and i dont feel like purchasing a special slurry product
No.2540
80% sanded. i'll have 10-15% done tomorrow, then that last 5% is goin through and touching up areas i sanded too far, or didn't sand enough and evening it all out
No.2541
>>2521>pinholesYou talking in the conc? You can always get some conc sealer and run over it after you’re done. It’s better than leaving it exposed. You could always get mapai self leveling concrete and a gauge rake and over lay the floor.
that involves moving every thang outta there and maybe spending more $ than you’d like but it leaves a brand new surface No.2581
we've got autism in our board name so here's an autistic question
can anyone tell how tall OP is using the rifle as a height reference?
No.2582
>>2581You can tell OP's height using any reference point of a known height. Not sure why you'd care though.
No.2583
>>2581shorkcel is 6'3 in the dick alone
t. notshorkcel but yuge fan of his work
No.2684
>are you still here funguy?
yes.
>what's your regular workflow to build one of your guns?
depending on the design of the firearm and how much work you want to do? it can be really drastically different. but generally:
<buy a parts kit
<build the receiver
<fitting of parts, welding, metal working
<function tests. test firing
<disassembly, final touches, finishes etc
<photoshoot
>do you also make bullets?
no thats too autistic and menial even for my autism. having to do ammo runs out of state is worth it to me because when i just stack thousands at a time
>what can the avg spartman aspire to achieve with just a bunch of power tools and no +$1K expensive shit (lathe, milling machine)?
this, basically. actual picture of my setup, btw. that was my first build. it was almost all dremels, hand files, drill press, and welder.
there is ofc a shit ton of minutia. having experience makes it loads easier and helps in understanding wtf you even need to do. its not cheap, and it won't be fast, but i really enjoy it after i finish.
if you want to do one make a thread, i'll give you a decent amount of my time to walk you through it and talk out your choices. like i said, lots of minutia.
No.2691
>>2684>yesnice.
fags with actual hobbies are a rarity in imageboards, and always fun to read. unlike terminally online retards.
<buy a parts kitand what are you supposed to do in a no-fun shithole, where you can't just ship in your lego technic kit? what should you be able to create by yourself, other than a lead pipe taped to plywood?
i wasn't thinking of a semiauto rifle either. something simpler like a small .22 pistol would suffice, like in those pa luty books. at least as learning material, just for fun.
>thats too autistic and menial even for my autismand how do you do those? a mould you carve the shape of the bullet in, then melt some lead in? are cast bullets even an option for anything that's not a hunting rifle? t. fun illiterate
No.2692
>>2691sorry this is really long:
>what should you be able to create by yourselfanything your autism desires
pic is an upper receiver i made for an AR18 (but with machine tools)
i had to make machine/weld bending jigs, dies for the rib forming, machining the trunnion etc.
you can still make stuff with simple tools, but without extreme skill and time, you'd want to make much simpler things that are mainly 2 dimensions. single shot rifles, or on the more skilled end bolt action rifles. something like a Remington rolling block action (pic attached) would absolutely be feasible, and would still be practical firearm today for non-combatant use.
the barrel would be the hardest part. coincidentally, im designing a stepper driven barrel rifling machine during my lunch breaks, since i plan on manufacturing the barrel on my next rifle build.
there are people out there making barrels through electro-chemical means, and that would be the likely means you could accomplish that.
>a no-fun shitholedamn you must live in a REALLY no fun shithole if you cant even buy miscellaneous gun parts (for things like display etc). this is much harder but you can still make things. latin america? or dare i guess
librejp?
>and how do you do [reloading] … ?typically, you would have a variety of dies and gauges, case crimpers, and dedicated machines for consistently setting bullets etc
a typical workflow might be something like
>cleaning fired cartridges>resizing fired cartridges in sizing dies>replacing spent primers>measuring and placing gunpowder>placing projectiles and crimping case neck>double checking cartridge dimensionsor something like that. in a no-fun shithole like you're describing, 90% of this stuff is probably not even legally available.
a forray into firearms would probably entail going back to something resembling 1800s technology of early cartridges. the chemistry for primers and gunpowder would be the hardest part. modern 3d printing could also be an option for making cases, but what you can do with a consumer grade printer would be extremely limited. if you had access to high end commercial style SLS or MJF 3d printers you could make something closer to a modern cartridge
whatever you do, it would probably end up being a relatively low power wildcat cartridge. casting bullets in lead is absolutely an option if you're going that route. if you got very advanced, you could do copper electroplating combined with a swaging die for very high accuracy. a paper or linen wax cased needlefire style cartridge (pic attached) would be very feasible
No.2693
btw, what would make a cast lead bullet vs a copper jacketed bullet feasible is going mostly be the bullet velocity. copper jackets didn't really become a thing until high velocity spitzer shapes and smokeless powder became a thing at the turn of the century
for lower velocity stuff, polymer jackets are now a thing and might be feasible as a hobbyist thing
No.2710
>>2693>>2692>pic is an upper receiver i made for an AR18 (but with machine tools)and how much can be done w/o said machine tools? all those bends, grooves, dies; how much is it form over function and how much can you skip? every single book that makes anything decent looking always uses a lathe and a milling machine, and I doubt I can walk into the local metalworks shop to machine my gun parts.
never said anything about fullon rifle autism either. consider I was reading about the four winds philippino gun and shotguns that are nothing more than a pipe attached to plywood.
>you'd want to make much simpler things that are mainly 2 dimensionsyeh, but now that you've said it full-autism sounds vary cool
;_;
>you must live in a REALLY no fun shithole if you cant even buy miscellaneous gun partsare you telling me you're allowed to do fun shit in
the EU? how is buying a large sheet of metal that's clearly a rifle's receiver going to fly at customs? even springs and levers, they're first and foremost gun parts and the parts manufacturer will label them as such, right? no doubt that shit would warrant some scrutiny and the obvious question of "why yu bying this budy?".
>dedicated machines for consistently setting bulletssuch as?
>90% of this stuff is probably not even legally availableI see it. was reading some handgun ammo guide by and it states, instead of building a primer, to recycle primers from blank rounds; and iirc a blank gun itself is restricted by the JEU and needs a special permit and a serial number to go w. don't know about the rounds themselves though.
>polymer jackets are now a thinghow yu du thes budy?
No.2711
>>2710>even springs and leversnot sure bout
PU any more but look into wind chimes budy :^)
No.2716
>>2710>and how much can be done w/o said machine tools?i think you could do pic rel with mostly hand tools, wooden jigs, paper templates, and creativity.
i was going to post the aluminum heat shields i hand made but i think they got lost in the board wipe 😡
>are you telling me you're allowed to do fun shit in the EU?depends where exactly, but there were actually AR18 parts kits available for sail in europe. i couldn't buy because the restricted parts aren't the same– yuros tend to make pressure bearing components the illegal parts. bolts, barrels, that sorta thing, while the receivers are intact.
you could totally reactivate one of these, with the right know-how. the
https://mjlmilitaria.com/eu-deactivated-weapons/EU standard for firearm deactivation:
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32018R0337Now im pretty sure they do faggot shit– like track the fucking sale and possibly spot checks on deactivation. But if you had the right tools
a mill, a lathe, a dremel you could make new barrels, bolts, and undo all the gay shit they did.
to a certain extent, its less daunting. fabrication of the receiver is always a bitch because everything attaches to it. but making the pressure bearing components its always more technically difficult.
>dedicated machineshttps://www.opticsplanet.com/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-reloading-press-085001.htmlsomething like this. basically a dedicated press with all the right stuff specifically for bullets.
you can pay in $$$ or sweat and tears. 2nd pic is a 'fancy' one.
what i hate the most is that im pretty sure all these companies stuff is proprietary, and you'll pay ridiculous prices for dies and other parts and stuff
>how yu du thes budy?some kinda coating on the lead bullets. a forum i had read was a guy saying that powder coating is polymer based, so he just does that and it just 'werks'
No.2721
>>2716>AR18 parts kits<implying you can ship those through customsI read somewhere you can recycle parts for a gun from many places, lik springs from general hardware suppliers or car scraps. what else can you do? where's the place to look for to get creative?
>deactivated firearmsnah, the jEU has made sure those firearms are gay an stupid. if all pieces are maliciously welded and drilled and all pressure components are unserviceable what good are they? $1500 for a receiver that's legally bound to be tracked? fuck that.
>if you had the right toolswhen and where are you supposed to use the mill and the lathe in making a fun? what is there that a dremel and drill press can't do, as opposed to a mill/lathe? how are you supposed to thread the inner barrel either way?
I've skimmed through some DIY book from some fag named bill holmes. said you needed one of those large mill machines to do anything. if I went to some metalworks shop what are the odds I can trick them to do my work? assuming they're gun-illiterate and they work a plain sheet of metal.
>a dedicated press with all the right stuff specifically for bulletsidgi. it's a case crimper you can measure powder charge w/?
No.2722
>>2721<implying you can ship those through customsi mean, they're for sale IN europe. like they're european origin, with upper receiver intact which is why i couldn't buy it because in the US an AR18 upper with sear is classed as a machinegun
pretty sure you can still buy gun parts over there, shit like springs, flash hiders, buttstocks and other miscellanea. hell i actually bought early production CETME L furniture from a spanish militaria site, had them delivered to a budy i knew in spain, and had him ship them to me in the US from an FPO
>if all pieces are maliciously welded and drilled and all pressure components are unserviceable what good are they?thats basically the same as a parts kit. those come in TORCH CUT and TOTALLY FUCKED here btw, see pic. i really do think reactivating a euro demill would be easier– just because half the battle is knowing how the fucking thing went together **more accurately what the tolerances were, and if the receivers all together you basically just have remake the barrel and bolt– and since specs for cartridges and chambers are freely available, you already have a solid starting point.
i don't disagree about the faggot pussy yuro tracking shit, tho.
>when and where are you supposed to use the mill and the lathe in making a fun? what is there that a dremel and drill press can't do, as opposed to a mill/lathe? its a question of time, effort, skill. a master tool & die worker could make an entire gun using a hand file. have a block that you want a straight, 5X diameter deep hole in steel, accurate to within 5 thou? maybe a 5 minute operation on a machine tool
do it with a drill press, and you're talking hours. because you'll drill it- the machine isn't rigid so it at an angle, or because you break a drill bit and scrap the piece, or because even if you nail it dead on location wise– you're still going to have to drill it intentionally small, ream it, then maybe even hone it to the final ID you really want. then repeat that for every other features on that part and DONT fuck any of them up.
doable. but extremely tedious
>said you needed one of those large mill machines to do anythingnah, look up electrochemical machining for rifling. its dirty, a little rough, but definitely doable and functional.
>get them to do my work? assuming they're gun-illiterate and they work a plain sheet of metal.can be done. theres a lot of ordinary looking parts in a gun. but i'd save the option for when you hit a roadblock that is insurmountable
No.2725
wasn't joking about chimes budy
maf-arms . com
seen a few that did yuro. no way they'll go as full as this but could get the small hard to build parts