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/h/ - Hobby Autism

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General thread for updating my latest project developments and any related autism
i think i actually did lose all my FAL updates in the wipe


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reupload of my latest development for an electroplated oxide coating
i found my soda ash so I don't have to make it from baking soda anymore, I plan to set up a matrix with different electrolyte concentrations and see if I can fine tune this


>i think i actually did lose all my FAL updates in the wipe
Damn, well archive this thread before faggatron decideds to be a fuck wit again ;-;


ive got all the pics on my phone, i'll move them over to my laptop at some point


since i lost my recipe that i had results with last time, i had to do a little trial and error to rediscover the solution
after some fine tuning, i'll start recording qty of materials and do a bunch of tests to get it working well. notes below

test notes:
started with glass of hydrogen peroxide, added sodium chloride until saturated. added more hydrogen peroxide until all sodium chloride was in solution. process repeated with soda ash.

no visible reaction was observed when placing test sample into solution. applying 8V resulted in bubbles forming at the anode and cathode. the test sample attached to the anode quickly developed pinnpoint corrosion, and the solution began to take on a rusty color

even after removal of the sample, the solution continued to generate bubbles and react. reaction eventually concluded.

removed sample had a heavy buildup of red and black oxide. wiping off excess and boiling the test piece resulted in mottled black oxide coat. pitting was visually apparent, but too small to be felt.

a second test piece was degreased and placed in solution. no visible reaction was observed upon its entry. applying 2V resulted in bubbles being generated at the anode and cathode. a thick, mostly even coat of black oxide with no visible red oxide was generated. upon wiping off excess and boiling, the final results were a durable but mottled and inconsistent black oxide coating.


quick correction, at 2V bubbles are not forming at the cathode.

doing tests with test piece 3. keeping amperage between .1 amp and .08. when it drops that low i take it out and card it.

i'll have to investigate alternative carding techniques (pressure washing? liquid abrasive etc?) because the entire point of doings this is that the internals aren't accesible for traditional carding


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Results from today:
1,2,3 left to right respectively
sorry the camera is so shit
very promising on that last one. the process actually ends up very similiar to traditional rust bluing. The big benefit being it skips the step of rusting, and you don't need to boil water

so spent some time thinking, and I bet the hydrogen peroxide isn't necessary. originally I was using that because I started this out looking for alternative methods of rusting and just sort of figured out that I could use the oxidizing reaction side of electrolysis, and that in the right conditions it would oxidize to black oxide

The .1 amp range seems like a good spot for this too, but I'll have to play with it

Now that the process is mostly figured I'll have to investigate the electrolyte solution


de-aerated some water and dosed it with sodium carbonate and sodium chloride
got black oxide development right off the bat. think my understanding of it is decent now
i think i have a rudimentary understanding of whats happening now.
next will brush up on chemistry… get the reactions written out proper like


determining the region black oxide formation can occur right now
i did a test with sodium carbonate saturated solution and worked my way up with salt until black oxide formation was observed, then kept working up until salt saturation was observed
next i'll start with a salt saturated solution and hopefully i'll manage to get a condition where the oxide gets formed, then it'll give me a range of electrolyte solution that i know 'something' happens in
after that it will be a systematic approach of filling in data points and noting the quality of the coatings


looking good budy


thanks the camera hides the flaws but it is pretty dark and durable
really very odd that theres nothing about doing this online. theres no way i could possibly be the first, right? just the first to document online?
just bizarre tho. hot and medium hot bluing are too difficult or toxic for people at home. rust bluing is extremely tedious, and cold bluing doesn't hold up well
you would have thought somebody would try to do this before


>you would have thought somebody would try to do this before
You're probably not the first. That'd be award worthy if so. I seem to recall reading some smithing tutorials on tor about 100 years ago. Couldn't tell you how accurate they were or any of that. You're doing the lords work.


gonna try and get the other bounding line tonight, I just finished working and I've got a couple hours before yeem get sleepy
after that I might try a test on a larger scale. Already made something to hold a trash bag, made out of chicken wire and wood plank stiffeners
see if this works on a 8ish gallon scale


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ok it looks something like this
very forgiving region
next i'll probly just pick something right in the middle of it and start messing with intensity of current, surface prep, and other factors for developing the coating


as an FYI the numbers above are range of 1-1/4 tsp - 2-1/4 tsp sodium carbonate and 3/4 tsp - 3.5 tsp sodium chloride in 1/2 cup of water


ok made a batch right in the middle of the range (1.75 tsp sodium carbonate, 2.125 sodium chloride)
i'm going to slowly increase the current now and see how if theres a range that yields the best results


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Gorgeous finish.
That rubs right off :(


How did you goof?


speculation, but i think the higher salt concentrations leave a more superficial coating. seemed like that during the oxide region testing too




very exiciting results from tonights experiment. will be posting the results shortly, i hope.



weve been in suspense


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1.5 tsp salt. 1.5 tsp sodium carbonate. 1/2 cup water
4.5V getting ~.5 amps initially. cleaned it if it dropped in the .3 amps
at higher voltages it builds up fast with lots of precipitate. maybe a couple minutes between needing to clean it?
i'd let it build up an oxide coating for 3-4 cleanings, then take it out and boil it.
that loosens up all the oxide that isn't adhered well, which i wipe off with a piece of cloth, then back into the electrolysis setup
i repeated that 4 times or so. took about an hour, not bad at all
next tests will be if it works using steam instead of boiling, and if the carding (oxide removal) can be done more quickly/automated. like maybe with water spray or something


also i now think that the process is actually
>ferric carbonate (black layer)
>iron hydroxide (white precipitate)
are building up on the anode
when ferric carbonate is heated up it decomposes to rust and carbon dioxide
when it gets boiled its probably decomposing to rust, then immediately converting to black oxide
i'll have to take a torch to my test piece, see if heating it up turns it to rust or not. that will tell me if its iron carbonate or black oxide


lookin p gud budy


thanks i did my torch test today
i dont have a clue about whats going on, but its a dark plum color now which is also kinda cool. doesn't seem like its any less durable, doenst seem to be rust
i also did a test where i tried removing loose material with my hose on a new test piece in the backyard but it wasn't very succesful
i might just get a Bransom 8210 for using in between plating sessions


bit the bullet and got a good deal on a used Branson 8210 ultrasonic cleaner
the manual instructions for testing if the transducer is functioning properly
supposedly the seller will repair or refund for equipment that isnt functioning right
they probly dont even know that the testing procedures exist, so i should have a good deal no matter what


is gunsmith cats any good or is it just more circlejerking reference books because actual toys are britain levels of banned?
and where do we stand on full wooden furniture on the FAL?


i enjoyed the anime. too short of a show to know how developed the characters are, but whoever wrote it had a good understanding of firearms and related american culture. better most weiamerican writers, modern especially.


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also what do you mean full wooden furniture on the FAL?
it has all wood


not the grip, often not the stock and sometimes not even the handguard
but on the other hand i think once I saw a wood carry handle, idk how i feel about that


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Oh you just mean what my opinion is on it?
i thought you were asking about my FAL build
practically, my preference would be all polymer. superior to wood in almost every way imaginable.
aesthetically, i think the west german's G1 FAL is the most attractive, with a mix of polymer or wood grips, wood stock, and sheet metal forend.


all wood furniture usually only looks gud on ww2 era or earlier rifles imo
smgs assault rifles machine guns all that other extra fun shit should be either polymer or straight up metal unless youre going full artist autist and having everything engraved in which case wood can sometimes look rally gud on something like a FAL but then you wont be doing anything but looking at it because at that point its just an art piece
part of the reason i hate classic aks is because the wood combined with the metal everything else looks fuckin stupid to me
t. timber hating sperg


ya but FAL and AK are both essentially WW2 designs
first prototype FAL was in '46, i think even earlier than the first prototype AK


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i miss the look of oldworld designs tbh
pure sovl
everything these days is superior in performance and manufacturing technique.. but it so lifeless. extruded aluminum and modular is fucking boring


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came across this pretty cool abomination today
its some random boomer SKS autist
not going to link the thread because its pure cancer filled with boot licking boomer fuds whining about 922 compliance


branson 8210 arrived today
didn't pass the graphite test, but did pass the foil test
will be doing a repeat of >>1952 but with ultrasonic instead of manual carding


ok some pics will be going up soon from todays experiments
>the good
steaming works great
and the ultrasonic cleaner takes off loose material almost instantly (10ish seconds)
>the bad
i was hoping that doing more thorough cardings using the ultrasonic cleaner would result in not losing any coating during the boiling/steaming, but that hasn't been the case
since it doesn't seem to matter if i card in between electroplating sessions, im going to try only doing it after a boiling
plus i'll only do 1 electroplate session between boilings, since if its built up heavy 75% of it just seems to come off anyway
so the new method i'll be trying out is


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ok so followup from yesterdays post
in order
>finished product
its surface finish is a lot more porous on this on
so while the iron carbonate is getting plated, the cathode is losing ions
basically becoming pitted at the atomic scale
it doesn't do much dimensionally, but it makes the surface finish sorta chalky and inconsistent looking
i dont mind it. probly excellent for paint adhesion and trapping oil, but its not the most attractive thing in the world
>the ultrasonic cleaner
its a bransonic 8210, probly from the mid 1990s. did some tests with foil and the ultrasonic trandsducers seem to be working. hopefuly she lasts a while
>steam cleaner sitting on a cup
that was my improvised steam chamber setup. as you can see from the end result, it worked find.


>worked find
fuck, brain rot.
worked fine*


>but its not the most attractive thing in the world
How does it function over all, and are you the kind of person who would prefer functionality over looks? If so shouldn't be a problem right? All in all looking p gud budy


>how does it function
dunno yet
i'll probly do a salt atmosphere test similiar to MIL-STD-883G. i bought a shitty ultrasonic humidifier for such a purpose
considering how porous it is, it will probly be decent
>who would prefer functionality over looks
not really, but it would be nice to have the option


Will try to set up a steam conversion test later today on a bigger piece to confirm it will work in the 18
If it does, I'll be setting up for the real deal this weekend.


did not work.
might have to try the 'hanging pipe' method that old boomer on youtube did


Boomers be knowing some stuff.


ive not found that to particularly be the case


>last post august
put down the flip and post update


i've been busy setting all the paperwork for a business to get YUGE tax benefits when i buy a 40k CNC machine to build firearms in my garage on the downlow


Loud and error posting


fuk yeah. makin amigos with the ese to helter skelter?


oxide coatings seem to be stable sitting in my garage
once i get my garage setup i think i'll go back to doing some oxide tests, maybe try it on some strips and leave it outside


Is that a meny success on that oxidizing or nah? How's everything else, get da machine?


seems to go well
i just finished redoing my water supply piping, finally got the drywall back up textured and painted, and mounted an electrical subpanel so i can rewire stuff later
now its ripping up the carpet, all the fucking carpet glue, and then grinding the floors flat and sealing them before i put the machine base in place


>grind floors flat
Using those grinders is a real pain in the dick and if your floor isnt level it will take for ever to grind away at it like that. Id suggest scrapping the piss outta them, then hitting it hard with a buffer and a real coarse screen.

t. did them floors before


ya i member your floors
my floor has a joint that runs through the middle of it, and the slab on either side is cocked up a bit so its a high point
theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue too. shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor and its insanely hard to scrape off
i might try dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the side


>dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the side
That will create exactly the mess you think it will. Mek might work better.
>shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor
No surprise there. These fucks never think of the next guy who has to come through. Total hacks did that, I'll bet they got paid by the gallon too


im gonna borrow a friends vibratory dremel and try a scraping blade first


yeaa ended up using a diamond grinder on an angle grinder.
i'll be done in about 4 hours, with maybe another couple using an orbital to smooth out any parts with rough aggragate


>theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue too
man i had to get rid of a small patch of that shit in my house when i tore the carpet up im sorry you have to deal with more of it that was easily one of the more aggravating experiences ive had fixing this shitheap up


Yeah that's a key part before you seal it. Doesn't sound like as big a pain in the dick as it could have been. Post pix pls


angle grinder is doing fucking work
definitely teh way to go
its a little scary because its really aggressive but just going methodically and calmly… i'll be done in about 4 hours at this rate
if i started this way i'd be done twice over now


i'll post some pictures this weekend
i also did electrical conduit for the outdoor lighting which was just ran with bare romex through the garage and redid the copper water supply piping from when the plumbers did a fix for a slab leak
also replaced all the shitty drywall they did and put in a sub panel, which i'll be fucking with later
my mains panel is a bit of a fire hazard so i'll be getting creative with my wiring to reuse all the existing wires but not exceed the stab rating of the fucking breakers like it is now


when i have some time later i'll see if i can't get a photo dump of the other work so far


Lookin forward to it. Good to see stuff to inspire me to do more projects around the house.


ok i organized them into a folder on my phone but its like 75 photos, so gonna take me a while to move them over


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Put in a new ac. Had to build a “window frame” for it. Idk how the old one stayed in there so long, it was balanced on a 1/2” plywood that was calked in with a few screws. When I get paid again I’m going to replace my toilet. I have some bad pipes I was going to replace too, from the shower. Considering I have to redo the plumbing from the toilet it all ties together to the main line that goes to the city waste water figured I’d just make a day of it and do it all


i'll excuse the foot pic but may wanna delete that last one
nice to get it in before the triple digits. be shittin in style soon


nice frankenposts monster


i'm still working on my stuff but its a nightmare, 1 of the 4 sections of my garage was poured with too much water by the house builders, so its very weak, spalls like crazy, and they had a bunch of wood chips mixed in with teh aggregate that rotted and left a fuck ton of voids
in short, i have a fucking ton of little repairs im doing and its holding me up


why would there be wood chips mixed in i thought concrete pads were typically poured before any woodwork was done? idk shit about construction


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short answer, shitty builders
im sure the mix got contaminated. maybe a real windy day blowing debris from neighboring construction. maybe builder using a fucked up plank to mix, level, or otherwise work the concrete
anyway today i use some Sakcrete Top'N Bond
it's a polymer concrete mix that can be used for up to 2" down to skim coat
i mixed in some charcoal to make it dark **did too much tbh, shits almost black) and after chiselling all the cracks and cleaning i filled it in
shits kinda hard to work. after 3 hours i came back with the razor scraper to take off most the excess. next i'll use orbital sander with 80 grit to take it back down to base level
if the concrete wasn't so spalled it would look real clean with a dark fill like that (light fills always stand out like a sore thumb, pic rel. spalling is so bad it will probably look a bit dirty but i can live with that, as long as its nice and smooth
i'll probly do a second coat to cover that entire quarter of the slab. i still have other voids and other stuff to fill, and i might as well only do the sanding once.


>might as well do the sanding once
Yeah man that dust is a bitch once you get sanding. Imo that’s the best idea. Be sure to cover anything left in the garage with plastic or something really well to keep the dust off/out of everything. Lookin good so far keep plugging away


i've actually grinded the entire garage down once already with diamond wheel and shopvac setup
like 4 or 5 entire shopvac fills of mastic/carpet adhesive, shit was nasty and even catch 99% of it it STILL got fookin everywhere
i did >>2499 over the weekend but the top n bond has a bit of aggregate in it, so it didn't get any of the pinholes
i can slurry coat it and the polymer blend is actually so good that even with wayyyy too much water it still way fucking stronger than my current concrete even with only 12 hours of curing


40% of my refinish sanded to 80 grit so far, can probably get it to 80% tomorrow
the surface was a lot less consistent than i thought, so the dark filler is wayy more prominent than i was expecting
not great but not terrible either. is buttery smooth, tho.
STILL can't get the pinholes, but i think i'm just going to leave it. only so much one can do, and i dont feel like purchasing a special slurry product


80% sanded. i'll have 10-15% done tomorrow, then that last 5% is goin through and touching up areas i sanded too far, or didn't sand enough and evening it all out


You talking in the conc? You can always get some conc sealer and run over it after you’re done. It’s better than leaving it exposed. You could always get mapai self leveling concrete and a gauge rake and over lay the floor. that involves moving every thang outta there and maybe spending more $ than you’d like but it leaves a brand new surface

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